Dale Fort Blog Contents 1 to 103

18 04 2024

Number 1

We’ve all got them, nematodes… Find out about your little known lodgers.

https://dalefort.wordpress.com/2012/03

Number 2

Three videos: Amazing starlings, how to do proper error bars in Excel and how to measure heights on seashores.

Number 3

The History of Dale Fort Part One. When did it all begin?

Number 4

The History of Dale Fort Part Two. What is it made of?

Number 5

A visitor from Japan.

Number 6

The History of Dale Fort Part Three. The First Humans.

Number 7

They’re small, they’re silver, they’re three tailed and you need to know about them.

Number 8

Everything you need to know about fat bellied book chewers.

Number 9

Research at Dale Fort, how seaweeds might save the world.

Number 10

Disappear into a wormhole for a few minutes, more research at Dale Fort.

Number 11

Limpets: Just why are they pointier on exposed shores? Plus a lot about their biology.

Number 12

All about Romans and a little later on St. Ann, St. Bride and St. Cadoc.

Number 13

All about St. David.

Number 14

How do you count a population that runs away and hides? Here’s how:

Number 15

Are these the most dangerous animals in the world?

Number 16

More Dale Fort History, some Normans and a couple of Henrys.

Number 17

Mice, quite cute but they don’t half waz a lot.

Number 18

Gannets, magic and Bendigeidfran on Grassholm.

Number 19

Kinds of mean and how to summarise them using beards.

Number 20

The standard deviation of the mean. Why are the mean deviant? More beardy fun.

Number 21

Welsh in ten minutes (ond ddim yn rhugl).

Number 22

There are lots of rumours about ghosts at Dale Fort. Finally, the truth is revealed (maybe).

Number 23

Continuing my simplified Excel help system, this one shows you how to do a frequency distribution.

Number 24

The storm of January 6th 2014. Including the destruction of the bridge at Castle Beach and the scaring of the photographer.

Number 25

Barnacles: So much more than just the worst aspect of a keel hauling. Learn all about them here.

Number 26

More on the history of Dale Fort. This time concerning George Owen and the Elizabethans.

Number 27

Tardigrades: I think they’re amazing and so will you.

Number 28

Who eats a pound of your skin a year? House dust mites do, not a pound each of course but en masse.

Number 29

Woodworm. They aren’t worms but beetle larvae and they want to eat your furniture.

Number 30

Spider Blog, Spider Blog, Does whatever a Spider Blog does…

Number 31

Pirates, The Civil War, The Seven Years War and the Last Invasion of Britain.

Number 32

Photosynthesis in Seaweeds. Why are they different colours?

Number 33

Rocky Shore Monitoring, mostly concerning rough winkles and channelled wrack.

Number 34

More Rocky Shore Monitoring, mostly concerning species diversity, limpets and top shells.

Number 35

Charles Greville, the defence of Milford Haven and the rise of Charles Louis Napoleon (80 cigarettes a day, the ladies of The Royal Ballet, World PingPong Champion 1843 (OK I made the last one up)).

Number 36

What is meant by “hypothesis testing statistics”? Honestly, it’s slightly more interesting than it sounds. As if that wasn’t enough, there’s also a section of some simple tests and what they do. Also, (very unusually for statistics) it’s written in English that normal people can understand.

Number 37

A visit to Skokholm Island. John Fursdon, the Skokholm Railway, a donkey, a bungalow and all manner of corking tales.

Number 38

Nadolig Llawen i bawb o Gaer Dale. Watch the video.

Number 39

Geography in The Preseli Mountains.

Number 40

Rebranding Milford Haven

Number 41

Crowded Coasts. Join Dale Fort Tutor Kim Howkes as she tells you all about St. Davids and tourism.

Number 42

Longshore Drift. Does it occur at Newgale? Find out here with students from Campion School, Essex.

Number 43

The Defence of Milford Haven and General Charles Gordon.

Number 44

Bill Ballantine, an obituary.

Number 45

Fungi, lichens and fungal music from The Ruff Winkles (Carulli, Opus 34, Largo No.6, available on CD and highly recommended).

Number 46

200 eyes, jet propulsion and sadly for them, delicious and valuable. They’re probably doomed. Stop eating them.

Number 47

A starling messenger.

Number 48

A Walk Around the Dale Peninsula Part One.

Number 49

A Walk Around the Dale Peninsula Part Two.

Number 50

Building Dale Fort, the mighty erection of the spirited contractor of Pembroke Dock.

Number 51

Some lovely motorbikes visit Dale Fort.

Number 52

Lots of stuff about Stackpole and Bosherston.

Number 53

Flower Quiz: It’s multiple choice so you can guess the answers. I hope it’s moderately amusing in parts too.

Number 54

The answers to the flower quiz.

Number 55

An introduction to blowing people up in the mid 19th century.

Number 56

How to blow French people up at Dale Fort in the 1850s.

Number 57

Just how do you fire a shell through 20 inches of oak and 5 inches of iron plate?  Read Blog 57 and learn how, you never know when this could come in useful.

Number 58

Another chapter from my forthcoming tome “how to do simple things using Excel in language anyone can understand”. Not a snappy title I’ll concede but still much better than the Excel help system. This one is all about ranking data.

Number 59

Marine Conservation is really simple, you just leave it alone. However, if you want it to be made more complex (governments and exploiters love doing this), here’s my effort at an explanation.

Number 60

Domestic arrangements at Dale Fort in the 1850s, further developments in Milford Haven and the world’s first guided missile (maybe).

Number 61

The Bones of Julian Cremona Part the First.

Number 62

The Bones of Julian Cremona Part the Second.

Number 63

The Bones of Julian Cremona Part the Third.

Number 64

The Zalinski Pneumatic Dynamite Torpedo Gun. If you ever want to shoot half a ton of dynamite at a ship, this is the one for you. I think Suella Braverman is considering putting in an order.

Number 65

Fresh from her ban by previous management, Nunzilla is back. Here she tells us about some common seaweeds.

Number 66

Species diversity in Milford Haven. Why it’s important, why we should look and keep looking. Why we probably won’t…

Number 67

You ‘Aint Nuthin’ but a Dale Saint. Saint Elvis.

Number 68

Dale Fort as a Private Residence. You probably had to be mad but luckily Colonel Owen Evans had just the right amount of eccentricity.

Number 69

Another mild eccentric, Mrs Lee Roberts at Dale Fort and beyond.

Number 70

Your favourite spark emitting clockwork nun with slightly dubious bladdery fun.

Number 71

Oxygen: Why so much on earth and nowhere else in the solar system?

Number 72

Nunzilla returns, she seems to be a bit obsessed with bladders. This time it’s Asophyllum nodosum.

Number 73

Seashore Flashers: Not what you think but some amazing flies.

Number 74

Nunzilla tells you how Catherine Mary Drew Baker became Queen of the Seas in Japan and how a major red seaweed industry was born.

Number 75

Dale Fort in World War Two. Part One.

Number 76

Just when you thought it was safe to drive a giant magnet over a bomb…. Dale Fort in World War Two Part Two.

Number 77

Mine Watching and poetry. The people at Dale Fort in World War Two.

Number 78

Dale Fort during World War Two Part Four. More about the people, some goats and a major shipping disaster.

Number 79

Dale Airfield and the start of The Council for the Promotion of Field Studies.

Number 80

Nunzilla’s adventures in the plankton.

Number 81

Dale Fort begins its career as a field centre.

Number 82

The Emersonian Era. Dale Fort Post Barrett.

Number 84

Dale Airfield.

Number 85

Worms are in danger. If only people liked them a bit more…

Number 86

Five Salt Marsh Plants

Number 87

Five more Salt Marsh Plants.

Number 88

The Last Five Salt Marsh Plants (for a while at least).

Number 89

An interesting brown seaweed that I contributed to a review paper on. Not only that its name sounds a bit like Thunderbirds (I do realise that that’s a reference probably lost on anyone under 60).

Number 90

What happens to three rock pools if you leave them for 26 years?

Number 91

More on those rock pools.

Number 92

The HIstory of Dale Fort Continued: The End of The Emersonian Era. The Cremonian Era Begins.

Number 93

Lichina confinis and sunspots. Can this be true?

Number 94

A Tour Around The Castle Martin Artillery Range in South Pembrokeshire.

Number 95

A Walk From West Dale Towards Marloes.

Number 96

The walk continues, this is mostly about the geology of Marloes Sands.

Number 97

The walk continues: Marloes Sands to Gateholm. Peninsula Forts and ship wrecks.

Number 98

A Visit to Nevern Part One. Pagan seduction, magic and bleeding yews.

Number 99

A Visit to Nevern Part Two. Pilgrims, witches, magic spells and how to obtain eternal bliss for a small fee.

Number 100

GIANT Christmas Quiz in celebration of 100 Blogs.

Number 101

Giant Quiz: The answers.

Number 102

A New Building at Dale Fort. Part One.

Number 103

A New Building at Dale Fort. Part Two.





Dale Fort Blog Number 103

16 04 2024

It had been intended that the building be designed to fit exactly into the space designated by The National Park Planning Authority. This space was the small parade area inside the fort used by Victorian soldiers. At the time that the building was planned it had long been a small sheltered lawn with a very nice tree in one corner. People used it for sitting about on and for games. I remember in my early days at Dale Fort mystifying Belgian students from The University of Leuven by showing them how to play cricket there. One bloke had seen the game before and had got it into his head that the main objective was to polish the ball by rubbing it up and down on his thighs. Since we were playing with a tennis ball this achieved little and seemed a bit odd, but he was obviously enjoying himself, so nobody said anything. Every Spring the tree came into flower and became a living firework display, I wish I could remember its name. Needless to say, the first action of the builders once they got inside the fort was to was bulldoze it into oblivion.

The Courtyard at Dale Fort in 1963, the lawn is in the left foreground

Obviously, building a large structure within the confines of a Victorian fortress, according to the Draconian strictures of The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Planning Authority required considerable thought and meticulous planning. It was very disappointing therefore when the builders discovered that the building as specified in the meticulous plans wouldn’t fit.

Destroying the lawn November 2005

The builders had a meeting with the architect, the upper echelons of The FSC and the Centre Manager. They decided that the best thing to do would be to increase the amount of space by cutting back the cliff at the back of the lawn.

The old red sandstone that makes up nearly all of The Dale Peninsula was folded and compressed and generally messed about with 300 million years ago. Two big lumps of land collided (very slowly) and made mountains (The Variscan Orogeny). This left the rocks between folded, faulted and friable. In the 1890s, the friable old red sandstone upon which Dale Fort sits was given a further metaphorical thrashing (although on a smaller scale) by the Victorian Military when they used dynamite to blast a huge hole in the cliff above the lawn. They then covered the hole with corrugated iron plates and concrete, creating the chamber which was to house compressed air cylinders for the Zalinski Pneumatic Dynamite Torpedo Gun. The gun sat on a central masonry reinforced pedestal constructed within the flat platform on top. (See Blog Number 64 for much more on The Zalinski Gun

Dale Fort Blog Number 64 | dalefort (wordpress.com) ).

If you look at the photograph above, you can see that the distance between the Zalinski emplacement and edge of the cliff is not great. What can’t be discerned from the photograph is the tunnel between the emplacement and the cliff that leads to the eastern side of the chamber. You might think that all this renders the gun emplacement rather fragile. The gun however pointed over the cliff (at the top of the picture) out to sea. This was where any incoming fire would originate and so it was very well protected by about 25m of rock, which is a lot, even if it is friable. The builders however had now received instructions to attack the cliff from the fragile side. They set about their task with a small digger equipped with a huge steel chisel.

Hacking away at a not all that stable cliff in November 2005

At this point the reader might reasonably be thinking “WHAT THE **%$ WERE THEY THINKING ABOUT???” Hacking away at a friable cliff doesn’t seem a very sensible option when the alternative is to modify the design of the building a bit. I remember the staff meeting where we were informed of what was to happen. My contribution was to outline the problems discussed above (but with more swearing). The Centre Manager, Julian Cremona, knew of course about the chamber and had told the planning meeting that it was probably not a good idea to chop away at the fragile cliff. He had been ignored. I made it my mission to tell the architect (on a rare visit) about the chamber, obviously I was ignored. I think I actually gave a guided tour of the chamber to the Project Manager but it made no difference, although to be fair he was probably only obeying orders (like the SS).

By February 2006, the Office at the top of the cliff, on the end of the Geography Lab (now The Grassholm Room) had been chopped off and they had succeeded in cutting back the cliff by 2m. Retention netting and rock bolts had been installed to ensure stability and perfect safety.

On the 2nd March 2006 sometime between 0630 (when the cook went on duty) and 0700 (when the next person walked by) there was a massive rockfall as the cliff collapsed. The digger was buried under many tons of rubble and very fortunately nobody was injured.

March 2006, a big pile of rubble and a newly extracted digger

The situation was now as follows: Tens of thousands of pounds had been spent, an archaeological site had been desecrated, a useful office with the best view ever had been destroyed and a pleasant lawn had been converted into a hazardous adventure playground.

There followed a hiatus when discussions took place as to what to do next. As Dale Fort Building Project tradition demanded, we staff wondered whether there would be a field centre for much longer. (See Blog Number 83, which explains how the new sewerage system nearly got the place closed a few years earlier, Dale Fort Blog Number 83 | dalefort (wordpress.com))

The Executive Committee of the FSC went back into discussion mode for several months. Eventually, they decided by a narrow margin that Dale Fort was worth keeping. They decided to get the problem fixed and finish the building. This was a great relief to me and (I believe) the other long term staff. It would however, greatly increase the cost of the whole project.

In September and October, a new company arrived. Daredevils carrying huge drills descended the cliff on ropes. They bored very deep holes all over the collapsing face. Eventually, they inserted about 150 rock bolts, each 5m long. They then covered the whole thing with a retention net and sprayed the lot with concrete. It was all very exciting to watch and their efforts made the cliff stable again.

Concrete spraying and rock bolting

Regular readers will remember my mentioning in Blog Number 102 the limestone staircase at the western end of the lawn. CADW (the Welsh ancient monuments people) had stipulated that it was an integral part of the Grade Two Listed Structure and must be preserved at all costs. A key part of the cliff bashing of February 2006 had been to smash it to pieces. This made accessing The Marine Laboratory (now Ramsey) and The Geography Laboratory (now Grassholm) quite challenging. The builders came up with a solution. Their Christmas present for 2006 was some scaffolding stairs and a bridge over the roof of The Research Laboratory (now The Tutor’s Office). This allowed access to the upper levels of The Fort. There remained the problem that mild vertigo sufferers refused to go anywhere near it (including a staff member’s dog, who had to be carried). It soon became known as The Bridge of Doom.

The Bridge of Doom in its final, slightly less doomy manifestation

It was pointed out that visiting staff and students (whose high altitude experience might be limited) would have to use this bridge. The builders put some more poles on it. It seemed more secure and was renamed The Bridge of Despair. It was still quite scary for a lot of our customers and some of our staff. The final amendment was the addition of plastic mesh to fill in some of the gaps. It then became possible to use it without seeing too much of the ground beneath. It had become merely a Slightly Dodgy Bridge and most people found it acceptable. There remained the problem of deterring testosterone enriched students from swinging from the bars, but that’s another story.

Things finally began to get going in January 2007. The drains were laid (completely wrongly as it later turned out) and a concrete base (pumped down a pipe from outside because the cement mixers wouldn’t fit under the entrance arch) put in place.

Laying the concrete floor

By the end of January the block work had begun and by the end of February the ceiling of the ground floor had been installed. The end of March saw the first floor complete and they had finished the second floor and put the roof on by the end of May. As far as I remember, the brickies were by far the most efficient part of the whole thing.

Brick Layers get on with it with unprecedented speed

My over-riding memory of this time is one of dust, delays, mud, delays, mess, delays, mud, more mess and lots and lots of intricate reversing of vehicles, boats and trailers to let delivery lorries and dumper trucks get in and out. Oh, and a lot more mud and mess. Eventually, after 2 painful years, things began to improve.

I think this picture conveys a little of the nightmare

Feverish fitting out of the structure let the first occupants stay in it by the end of August 2007. I was the first to teach in the new building when I ran the last course of 2007 from the (not quite finished) Skomer Room.

August 2007, nearly finished

Christmas 2007 saw the first major event for the new building. Dale Fort was now big enough to host the FSC Annual Staff Conference. It was an extremely successful week. I met someone only last year who still remembered winning the Three Beards Mystery Treasure Hunt event, which I’d enjoyed devising and running. There was a pantomime performed by staff in Dale Village Hall which allowed us (myself and my glorious colleague John Archer Thomson) to lampoon the FSC mercilessly and get away with it. In fact we were lauded for it, not the usual FSC response to satire. There were also lots of flip charts, PowerPoints, SWAT Analyses, and prioritization of our objectives. Who could forget those?

As 2007 turned into 2008 it became clear that the drainage of the building had not been very thoroughly planned. The original intent had been to turf the roof with Sedum (stonecrop). Because of all the problems and delays, this was now deemed too expensive. As a result, when it rained, instead of being absorbed by a bed of Sedum,vast quantities of water poured straight off the bare aluminium roof and a lot of it flowed through the front door of The Ramsey Room. For the last 30 years water had been flooding into the back of the Ramsey Room via the stairs from The Field Stores. Teaching Staff had enjoyed mopping it all up whenever it rained heavily. Julian Cremona had solved this problem in 2005-6 by having underfloor drainage channels cut. Now, just two years on, Teaching Staff were again privileged to mop up floods coming from the opposite direction. The problem was cured by making a concrete ramp at the entrance, to divert the water down the back of the new building. Here it added to the river of run-off that flowed from the roof down the cliff and through the back wall of the main structure, creating a 20m long lake in the void at the back of the building.

This was fixed by cutting an open gully in the floor of the void, the length of the building and connecting it to the newly created drains. It seemed to work reasonably well. However, it does rain rather a lot in West Wales and the next time it did, a new lake formed on the front side of the building flooding the path through the middle of the fort. This made it tricky on rainy days for customers to reach their classrooms and the Dining Room and The Library, or indeed their bedrooms and bathrooms, if trapped on the other side. New builders came and fixed the problem. They did this by digging up the newly laid floor and re-laying the original drains, which had been positioned so they went uphill.

In common with most building projects, a lot went wrong. Like every building project at Dale Fort, a lot more than usual went wrong because of underestimation of the awkwardness of the location; because of supervision of the workers from afar; because of failure to take into account local conditions and I dare say many more problems of which I am unaware. The cost of project had been estimated at £730,000. It ended up costing slightly over £1,000,000 (about 1.7 million today), most of the extra being spent on stopping the cliff from collapsing.

Dale Fort with the St David’s Building in place and fitting in quite nicely

The new building was called The St David’s Building and by 2009 its problems seemed to be mainly solved. It had two rooms specially equipped for use by disabled people, a lift and two excellent new teaching rooms. There were also many more options for student accommodation. The new rooms were all en suite and could hold up to 5 people. They can be used as Air B and B accommodation and are popular with holidaying families at times when Dale Fort isn’t full of students. In 2009, a grassy and decked area on top of the cliff behind The Grassholm Room was made to compensate for the lost lawn.

Don’t miss the next Dale Fort Blog. We are getting dangerously close to the present day with the history stuff. Who knows what horrors might crawl out from under recently settled stones?





Dale Fort Blog Number 102

21 03 2024

This Blog continues the story of Dale Fort.

Just how do you build an accommodation and teaching block up a very narrow road, inside a fortress, on top of a cliff? Read on…

The first step towards getting a new building is to get yourself recognised as a successful field centre. 1999 was a record year for student numbers. Julian Cremona’s efforts had at last resulted in Dale Fort being seen by the powers that were as the successful centre it had actually always been. It was obvious that more room was needed. It was equally obvious that the accommodation for both students and staff was not up to 21st Century expectations.

The Executive Committee of The FSC began to think about the prospect of a new building for Dale.

The architect they selected had designed buildings for other FSC centres. It was not seen as a problem that he lived 250 miles away and probably couldn’t have pointed to Dale on a map. Lots of ideas were discussed at great length as to the precise location and design of the new building.

My favourite suggestion was my own (obviously). This would be a two storey building occupying the gun platform on Dale Point. It would have a roof covered in coastal vegetation and recreate the cliff profile as it was before the Victorian military engineers blasted out the flat platform with dynamite. The windows would furnish amazing views of Milford Haven and The Atlantic Ocean. It would be almost invisible to onlookers because the sloping, vegetated roof would make it look like a natural cliff. I mention this here because if anyone ever decided to build something more at Dale Fort…?

Obviously, this was rejected instantly.

My second favourite suggestion (from The Centre Manager Julian Cremona, I think) was for a building occupying the Zalinski Pneumatic Dynamite Torpedo Gun Emplacement.

Obviously this was also rejected almost instantly.

The Executive Committee continued to think. As they pondered, a further four years went by and Dale Fort remained very profitable. Nothing changed their opinion that Dale Fort deserved improvement.

Eventually many of their discussions proved pointless, The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Planning Authorities had the final say. They dictated that the only acceptable place for the building would be on the lawn between what was then “C” Block and Bottom Lab (which I used to call Proctology, but I don’t think anyone ever got it). (Nowadays, St. Cadoc and St. Elvis). Eventually, by 2003 the plan for a new building had been produced.

The Courtyard and Lawn at Dale Fort in 2005 before the new building

The National Park Planning Authority had issued their permission with one proviso. This was that the Geography Laboratory (now known as Grassholm) be demolished. This building they said despoiled the appearance of the Milford Haven Waterway. Nobody had ever realised this before, so it was a bit of a surprise. We felt that it was something of an exaggeration, given that there were four oil refineries and a huge power station making their presence felt on the waterway. Grassholm had been there since 1960 (before any oil refineries) and it was the biggest teaching room at Dale Fort, so it was with great reluctance that this was agreed to.

Plans were redrawn and resubmitted. The plans were now deemed acceptable and given the go ahead. When the plans were returned it was noticed that the Grassholm building was still on them. Somehow, the wrong plans had been approved. The building survives to this day, happily destroying the ambiance of the Milford Haven Waterway and remaining as Dale Fort’s biggest and best classroom.

CADW (the Welsh ancient monuments people) stipulated that the limestone steps (see picture above) were an integral part of a Grade Two Listed Structure and must be preserved at all costs. Naturally, they were smashed to pieces by the builders at an early stage of the development.

There then followed two more years of discussion.

Then, on the morning of 9th November 2005, three men and a digger arrived. They set about clearing and levelling an area behind the Bronze/Iron Age defensive rampart in the next door field to create a compound.

Within minutes, news of this development reached the local community. Alarm, despondency and anger were the results. Within days, I was detailed to meet the National Park’s Archaeologist who was understandably upset at the destruction of part of a registered ancient monument. She was at a loss to understand how this could have been allowed to happen.

The builders had stripped off the top layer of earth with their digger, covered the site with hardcore and built defensive ramparts of their own to protect the site. The builders had however asked for and been given permission to excavate the site. Everything they had done was legal. How could this be?

This is how it could be:

The site had been the subject of much archaeological work by the late Professor Grimes and his students. The annual “Courses for All” archaeology week was for years a popular part of the Dale Fort programme.  Visitors today will observe the remains of the Iron Age rampart as a bank of moderate height and a ditch of moderate depth.   It would have been a much more formidable defence when it was constructed, the bank three or four feet higher and capped with sharpened stakes and the ditch three or four feet deeper.  The large post-holes on either side of the central entrance indicate that the wooden entrance gate would have been a formidable barrier.

Professor Grimes (centre right) and his slaves c1970’ish

In order for Grimes and his slaves to dig the site without breaking the law, it had been necessary to temporarily deregister it as an ancient monument for the period of their work. The site would then be re-registered after the season’s work had been completed. The last of Grimes’s digs had taken place in 1988 and the site had not been re-registered. Permission had been granted because it was not listed in the appropriate ancient monuments file.

CADW (the Welsh Ancient Monuments people) ordered that the site be restored as much as possible under the supervision of archaeologists. In July 2007 the stripped off surface was examined by workers from Cambria Archaeology. It took 2 days just to remove the hardcore. Evidence of a small ancient structure of unknown function was found near to the bank.

Little else was found in that very dry summer, until on the final day of the project, it rained. Then, just inside the rampart, slightly north of the entrance, just visible on the wet surface appeared two concentric circles. The diameter of the inner one was 12 metres. The archaeologist in charge (Pete Crane) realized that they had found the site of a huge circular building, surrounded by a drip-gully (drainage channel). This had been missed completely by Grimes and only found now because of a bureaucratic blunder, an accidental act of vandalism, and a chance change in the weather. The sheer size of the foundation makes one wonder whether it might have been a permanent habitation for someone important or maybe a warehouse for goods? You can read more speculative material about the possible functions of Pembrokeshire Promontory Forts in Blog 97 Dale Fort Blog Number 97 | dalefort (wordpress.com)

The builders had piled up the earth into a 21st Century defensive rampart to prevent thieves from stealing materials and machinery. CADW felt that these new defences might bamboozle later generations of archaeologists and so they made them (as best as they could) put it back where it had come from. The stripped surface is now recolonised by vegetation and is used by Dale Fort students for a variety of botanical studies, football and sitting about.

Much like the new building at Dale Fort, Blog 102 has taken rather longer to complete than anticipated. It will therefore be left to Blog 103 to describe the actual construction of the building. This will be the first telling of this thrilling tale. Don’t miss it.

Post Script: The winner of the Dale Fort Blog Christmas Quiz was so unutterably thrilled by the whole experience that he insisted on re-creating the presentation ceremony in real life (see Blog Number 101 for a picture of the virtual event). Thus, at a glittering ceremony (another one) he was presented with his prize before the Dale Amateur Dramatics Society variety show on February 17th this year.

Simon Wood (right) receives his prize from me (left)

(Note Simon’s exact replication of hat and dinner suit and my first (and probably only) appearance in this blog))

Well done Simon and thanks for supporting this blog and entering the competition.





Dale Fort Blog Number 101

4 01 2024

Welcome to your deepest fears and nightmares…

Not really, this is just Blog 101 

For the few people who did not read it, Blog 100 comprised a quiz based on the previous 99 Blogs. This Blog gives you the answers and the results (see bottom of page). If you want to do the quiz, without cheating, go back to number 100.

The Answers

1: How long was the biggest nematode worm ever found?

Answer: 8.5m in the pancreas of a sperm whale.

2: Which video on this blog has had more than 86,000 views?

(Quite astonishing given the subject matter)

Answer: How to plot custom error bars in Excel. I made this for my 20-odd Open University Students but it proved popular with people (like me) all over the world who found the Excel help system incomprehensible) .

3: The rocks of the Dale Peninsula are red, why?

Answer:  The rock is called old red sandstone. It is stained red because it contains an iron compound, which is fully oxidized (like red rust). The sandstone consists of a matrix of this compound (iron (III) oxide) holding together harder particles of quartz. 

4: Where did the slate flagstones in Dale Fort come from?

Answer: They probably came from Rosebush (or maybe Abereiddy) in North Pembrokeshire. They were formed around 500 million years ago, when fine sedimentary shales were metamorphosed into slate as a result of heat produced by earth movements and the intrusion of molten material from below.

5: What is the big brown seaweed from Japan that’s colonising European shores?

Answer: Sargassum muticum (used to be called Japweed, these days an unacceptably racist term, so has been renamed wireweed (which is of course wireist). Remarkably, humans can find ways to be offensive about anything, even seaweed names.

6: What’s a potboiler?

 Answer:   These are stones, cracked or shattered by rapid cooling as a result of being heated in a fire and dropped into cold water in cooking vessels, thus heating the water and cooking the food.  Hot stones may have also been used to make a type of a sauna bath. 

7: Who pioneered the futon on the Dale Peninsula?

Answer: Me. Between 1985 and 1988 when I was privileged to live at Dale Fort, I developed a sleeping arrangement then revolutionary on The Dale Peninsula.  I spent each night on the floor, on a thin roll-upable mattress that I could pack away into a cupboard every morning.  Pioneering the futon meant I could maximise the floor area of my very small room during the few conscious moments I spent there when not teaching.  A secondary benefit was that I developed a close acquaintance with the thousands of silverfish who shared the accommodation.

8: What do book lice eat?

Answer: Most books are made from wood which is not an easy thing to subsist on.  Wood-eating animals like termites can only digest it with the aid of the complex community of micro-organisms that dwell in their guts (baby termites inoculate themselves with these organisms by licking their mother’s bottoms and starve if they don’t).  Booklice can’t eat books directly but chomp instead upon the moulds and fungi that can.  Two stiff rods support the head while the biting jaws chew up the food.  It could be argued that booklice are a force for book-conservation because they remove paper and gum digesting fungi.  In the long run, it’s probably better to get rid of both.  An easy way to do this is to heat and desiccate them (a hair dryer will do the job).  You should think carefully before applying this treatment to your First Folio Edition Shakespeare.

9: Why does ice float on water?

Answer: Water molecules have a positive end (the hydrogen atoms) and a negative end (the oxygen atom). As they cool the negative bits glue on to the positive bits and make a crystal lattice, which is less dense that the liquid water they originated from. This (I think?) makes water unique and life as we know it possible.

10: How many bait digger’s holes were found on The Gann Site of Special Scientific Interest when Dale Fort mapped them?

Answer: 26,615. There’s now a Natural Resources Wales voluntary code in place to try to manage the site. The main problem being that there’s nobody to do the enforcing, so what’s the point? A lot of conservation legislation seems to follow this approach. Where are the worm police when you need them?

11: What is the grazing organ of a limpet called?

Answer: A radula. Actually a formidable bit of kit as you’ll know if you looked at Blog 11. The radula teeth are the hardest substance yet found in living creatures.

12: Upon what did Saint Bridget hang her cloak to dry?

Answer: A sunbeam, thus proving her saintliness.

13: What did Saint David preach against at The Synod of Brefi in 545 AD?

Answer: The Pelagian heresy. Pelagius said that original sin was nonsense and that salvation could be attained by individuals, without the need for the church. The church was miffed about this.

14: What do the terms “trap happy” and “trap shy” mean?

Answer: To catch and mark a small mammal you use a baited trap with nesting material in it (a Longworth trap, look it up).  Mammals are good at learning and some quickly realise that getting trapped means free bed and breakfast, no predators and the enticing prospect of escaping into the huge beard of the bloke who opens the trap and there building a cosy nest.  Such individuals are called trap-happy because they actively seek out traps.  The opposite extreme is where individuals find the prospect of being trapped and meeting the ecologist with his vile smelly beard appalling.  These individuals actively avoid the traps and are known as trap-shy animals.  If you have individuals of either persuasion (or both) in the population then your estimate is unlikely to be correct.

15: Why are female mosquitoes far scarier than than the chaps?

Answer: Males eat fruit and decomposing vegetation. Females suck your blood and might give you malaria or dengue fever. The females need extra protein to produce their eggs.

16: What is orpiment?

Answer: An arsenic sulphide compound imported to mediaeval Wales from either (present day) Italy or Kurdistan.  Orpiment was the only means of producing a clear yellow colour in hand-written manuscripts. It was extremely expensive. 

17: How big is a mouses bladder?

Answer: Very small. Mice leave a trail of wee everywhere they go.

18: What does the old Norse name “Grassholm” mean in English?

Answer: Green Island.

19: What is pogonophobia?

Answer: Fear of beards.

20: What is the oldest frequently spoken language in Europe?

Answer: Welsh.

21: What is the standard deviation of the mean?

Answer: They (the mean) think that their attitude will bring them happiness and satisfaction. It won’t. It’s also a measure of how far a set of data varies either side of its arithmetic mean.

22: What was The Giant Bat of St. Bride?

Answer: A bin liner, wrapped around a chimney pot.

23: What is a frequency distribution?

Answer: Do you really want to know? Maybe you should get out more? It’s a kind of graph, that can be very useful in showing the general shape of a set of data. See Blog Number 23.

24: What is the name of the pub In Dale?

Answer: The Griffin, watch the video.

25: Who hated a barnacle as no man ever did before?

Answer: Charles Darwin.

26: What is the oldest structure designed for ordnance in Milford Haven?

Answer: East Blockhouse c1579.

27: What multicellular creatures can survive in outer space without spacesuits?

Answer: Tardigrades.

28: What do house dust mites eat?

Answer: Human skin.

          A contented flock of house dust mites graze across your underwear

29: What creatures terrified the protagonist in Edgar Allen Poe’s story The Tell Tale Heart?

Answer: Death Watch Beetles.

30: In 1930, why did a policeman stop the traffic on Tower Bridge?

Answer: To allow a huge house spider to cross the road safely.

31: What was The Black Legion?

Answer: An Irish-American mercenary named Tate had been put in charge of a force of around 1500 Frenchmen,  mostly from French military prisons.  They were dressed in uniforms captured from French Royalists, originally red but now dyed almost black, they were known as Le Legion Noire (The Black Legion). They made a successful landing in 1797, not far from Milford Haven, at Carreg Wastag near Fishguard. It was the last invasion of mainland Britain.

32: What colour is phycoerythrin?

Answer: Red, it’s found in red seaweeds.

33: When did the oil tanker Sea Empress first crash into the rocks near St Anne’s Head?

Answer: 15th February 1996.

Years ago, I was giving a talk about the Sea Empress oil spill to a group of students from a very posh English public school. One of the students said, “my dad took that picture”. This photograph was taken illegally since the government had banned private aeroplanes from flying over the scene. I believe he got fined a few thousand pounds. However, the picture was syndicated worldwide and he made a small fortune, thus enabling him to fund his daughter’s very expensive education. I hope if he sees this, he will also refrain from suing me because this picture can be seen all over the place and I doubt if everyone’s paying.

34: What is Melarhaphe neritoides?

Answer: A small snail that lives in the upper shore and splash zone.

Small winkles, big picture

35: Which Emperor of France was a special constable in London?

Answer: Charles Louis Napoleon. He escaped imprisonment in France in 1846, fled to London where he joined the special constabulary and helped his chums beat up The Chartists.

Charles Louis and friends attack people who would like to vote.

36: What is a null hypothesis?

Answer: An hypothesis of no difference, invented for the sole purpose of bamboozling non statisticians.

37: What animal paddled into the middle of the pond on Skokholm at the sound of the supply vessel?

Answer: The donkey that pulled the cart (it could hear the boat before the humans had spotted it and knew it would get bribed with carrots to entice it from the water).

38: Who is the cocker spaniel?

Answer: The much missed Meggie.

39: Where is the source of the Afon Synfynwy?

Answer: In The Preseli Mountains.

40: What does Aberdaugleddau mean in English?

Answer: Mouth of the two Cleddaus.

41: What is the smallest city in the UK?

Answer: St. Davids.

42: Where in Pembrokeshire can you discover the truth about longshore drift?

Answer: Newgale (at least as far as this blog is concerned).

43: How many musketry loops are there in The Defensible Barracks at Pembroke Dock?

Answer: 712. They needed this many because of the slow rate of fire of muzzle loading firearms.

44: Which champion of marine conservation informed me that: “Limpets are my f***ing business Steve…”?

Answer: The Great Bill Ballantine. Very posh accent plus foul language equals very funny (in my book anyway).

45: What does a baby termite have to do before it can digest its food (wood)?

Answer: Lick its mother’s anus (so it can inoculate itself with the necessary bacteria to enable wood digestion).

46: What marine mollusc has up to a 100 blue eyes and is jet propelled?

Answer: The scallop.

47: What is a murmuration?

Answer: A mass of starlings flying about in formation and looking astonishing.

48: What was the carbon date obtained for the earliest known Dale Fort?

Answer: 790 BC.

49: What was Chain Home Low?

Answer: An early radar system providing early warning of approaching baddies (the Germans in this case).

50: Who was the military engineer most probably responsible for the construction of Dale Fort?

Answer: Lieutenant Colonel Victor RE.

51: Who is Juligan Inglesius?

Answer: The provider of the background music for this video. You may have guessed it was me in Latin mode, guitar footling (there have to be a few difficult questions, or everyone will win and I’ll have to provide 100 copies of Scattering Dreams).

52: Who was the earliest named victim of gingism in Pembrokeshire?

Answer: Simon. In 1188 Gerald of Wales mentioned a man called Elidyr de Stackpole, the owner of the Stackpole Estate.  Elidyr founded the church and employed Simon de Gingo (he had red hair) to look after things.  Simon made sure everyone (the workers included) was well fed and housed and spent a lot of Elidyr’s money. He didn’t live on the estate but seemed to vanish at night.  He was instructed to economise but failed to do so.  As a result, a member of the Elidyr family followed him one night and reported seeing him turn into a demon and consort with a bunch of other demons down by the mill pond.   Simon’s mum confirmed that actually, she’d been ravished by the devil (disguised as her husband) and 9months later out came Simon.

53: What is an actinomorphic flower?

Answer: One that is radially symmetrical.

54: What is a stigma (in terms of parts of a flower)?

Answer: A sticky tip (ooh err missus…).

55: What is rifling?

Answer: Spirals cut inside a barrel to impart spin to a projectile.

56: Why would you not use ferrous metals in a powder magazine?

Answer: Ferrous metals spark easily and gun powder explodes when exposed to sparks.

57: What was La Gloire?

Answer: The first French iron clad, steam powered battle ship.

58: What Does RnkAvg stand for in Excel?

Answer: Rank Average zzzzzzz……..

59: What is an MCZ?

Answer: A Marine Conservation Zone.

60: Who drew the earliest known plan of the present Dale Fort?

Answer: Lieutenant Stanford (1866).

61: Who was Scalm?

Answer: The first named Icelandic Horse (12th century).

62: What is the largest predator on earth?

Answer: The sperm whale.  The males can grow to 20m long and weigh 50 Tonnes.  Mostly they eat giant and colossal squid from the deep oceans. 

63: Why do rabbits do so well on Skomer and Skokholm?

Answer: No ground predators, lots of grass.

64: What sounded like the wail of a discontented elephant?

Answer: The Zalinski Pneumatic Dynamite Gun.

65: What % (by weight) water loss can Fucus serratus ( serrated wrack) tolerate?

Answer: About 40%.

66: What year did Noddy’s Hat get broken?

Answer: 2018.

67: What does Creigiau Preseli mean in English?

Answer: Elvis Rocks.

68: What was the name of Colonel Owen Evans’s dog?

Answer: Shot.

69: What was M. A. Bland known as?

Answer: MAB.

70: How much water loss (by weight) can Fucus vesiculosus (bladder wrack) tolerate?

Answer: About 70%.

71: What is an anaerobic organism?

Answer: One that lives in the absence of oxygen.

72: What is Ascophyllum nodosum?

Answer: A big brown seaweed, watch the video, it’s amazing (the seaweed probably not the video).

73: Who on the shore has flashing headlamps?

Answer: Flies of the family Dolichopodidae (usually called Dolichops flies).

74: What species of red seaweed can you buy on Swansea Market?

Answer: Porphyra known in Wales as laver, boiled for hours, fried and as delicious as you’d expect.

75: Where was the largest oil fire the world had ever seen until the first Gulf War took over this dubious honour?

Answer: The oil depot at Pembroke Dock (the biggest in the world), bombed by The Luftwaffe in August 1940.

77: What entered the sea via a blue silk parachute?

Answer: Magnetic mines, dropped by The Luftwaffe.

78: What does LCG stand for?

Answer: Landing Craft Guns.

79: How many military personnel were stationed in and around Dale during World War Two? (To the nearest thousand will do).

Answer: 4000.

80: Who invented the nun shrinking machine?

Answer: Mary-Kate Morrell. Well, her idea, my execution.

81: Who was the first warden of Dale Fort Field Centre?

Answer: John Barrett.

82: When was the first recorded field course at Dale Fort?

October 25th – 26th 1947. John Barrett gave members of The West Wales Field Society a tour of The Gann Estuary, mainly looking for Autumn migrant birds.

83: Who helped fire a volley of King Edwards potatoes at an Icelandic trawler during the first action in The First Cod War?

Answer: The second warden of Dale Fort, David Emerson, as Navigating Officer on a British Navy frigate. They were responding to a shower of cod’s heads catapulted from the trawler.

84: How much aggregate was needed for the main runways of Dale Airfield? (This one’s for Simon).

Answer: My calculation based on a little knowledge and a lot of internet comes to about 120,000 Tonnes.

85: How do Natural Resources Wales know if someone if breaking their code of practice for worm digging at The Gann SSSI?

Answer: They don’t unless somebody tells them. This is their email: icc@naturalresourceswales.gov.uk let them know.

86: What salt marsh plant is sometimes called “poor man’s asparagus”?

Answer: Salicornia (which means salty horn in Latin). A more appropriate name these days, given its use in posh restaurants might be “rich man’s novelty vegetable”.

87: Sea pink, thrift, Armeria maritima. Three names for the same plant. What languages does the generic name (Armeria) derive from?

Answer: Welsh, ar mor = by the sea, Latin, maritimus = of the sea. Only a suggestion but possibly the only flowering plant with a name partially derived from Welsh.

88: Which salt marsh plant tastes of coriander (apparently) and is best avoided if very hungry?

Answer: Sea arrow grass (Triglochin maritima). There are morons on the internet that will tell you that this is an edible species. It contains cyanide when mature, so do not let it anywhere near your mouth (or indeed any orifice) is my advice.

89: Which coasts are the native habitats of Sargassum thunbergii?

Answer: The coasts of China, Japan and Korea.

90: What are the main nutrients that algae use derived from chicken poo?

Answer: Nitrates and phosphates.

91: What is nominative determinism?

Answer: Nominative determinism refers to where the name of someone determines their role in life (e.g. Hugh G. Wrection might be a scaffolder, specializing in large buildings).

92: Who wrote A Field Atlas of the Seashore?

Answer: Julian Cremona, the third warden of Dale Fort.

93: What is a fruiticose lichen?

Answer: A lichen that sticks up from the surface like a tiny shrub.

94: How many tanks (+ or – 10) does the British Army have ready for action?

Answer: 64.

95: What is the Ritec Fault?

Answer: The Ritec Fault is the reason Milford Haven exists. Two massive lumps of the earth’s crust collided and lots of rock was shattered. Shattered rock is easily eroded. This erosion is what created the valley of the River Cleddau.   The fault extends right across South Pembrokeshire to Saundersfoot.  It then extends right under Carmarthen Bay to The Gower.

96: When did Archbishop James Ussher claim that the world began?

Answer: In 1650, Archbishop Ussher used the dates and chronologies in the bible to enable him to announce that the earth was created at midday on October 23rd 4004 BC

97: When was the paddle steamer Albion wrecked?

Answer: 18th April 1837.

98: Where did Saint Brynach commune with angels?

Answer: On Carn Ingli, which means hill of angels.

99: How do you ensure instant eternal bliss upon shrugging off the mortal coil?

Answer: Simple, all you have to do is die immediately after being granted a plenary indulgence before you’ve had time to commit any more sins. There’s a fuller explanation of this in Blog Number 99.

There we are, the answers to all 99 questions and definitely the last time we’ll have a quiz this big written by me.

The response to the quiz was overwhelming but one entrant beat everybody else by several country parsecs.

The winner is:

Simon Wood of Cardiff and Marloes

Many congratulations to him and thanks from me for actually answering every question.

Simon, sporting curiously contrasting headgear, receives his prize at a glittering occasion on my laptop.

Second place went to Dr. Jonathan Hales of Chepstow.

Third place went to Nunzilla of China.

In fourth place was Arnold Swarzneggar of California.

Fifth was Sandy Morrell of Tish,

Sixth place was taken by Cornelius Probe of Allreggub, Carmarthenshire.

Look out for Blog 102, 

I can confidently predict that it will not be a quiz…





Dale Fort Blog NUMBER 100

7 12 2023

Welcome to the 100th edition of this blog. As I pondered how I might celebrate this momentous event, I remembered that it’s nearly Christmas. The time of indigestion, intoxication, bad telly, dreadful jumpers and quizzes.

Email your answers to me at: morrellstephen@hotmail.com The winner gets a free copy of Scattering Dreams: A History of Dale Fort by me. Second and third may get two and three copies respectively…

1: How long was the biggest nematode worm ever found?

2: Which video on this blog has had more than 86,000 views? (Quite astonishing given the subject matter)

3: The rocks of the Dale Peninsula are red, why?

4: Where did the slate flagstones in Dale Fort come from?

5: What is the big brown seaweed from Japan that’s colonising European shores?

6: What’s a potboiler?

7: Who pioneered the futon on the Dale Peninsula?

8: What do book lice eat?

9: Why does ice float on water?

10: How many bait digger’s holes were found on The Gann Site of Special Scientific Interest when Dale Fort mapped them?

11: What is the grazing organ of a limpet called?

12: Upon what did Saint Bridget hang her cloak to dry?

13: What did Saint David preach against at The Synod of Brefi in 545 AD?

14: What do the terms “trap happy” and “trap shy” mean?

15: Why are female mosquitoes far scarier than than the chaps?

16: What is orpiment?

17: How big is a mouses bladder? (Choose from huge, medium, small or very small).

18: What does the old Norse name “Grassholm” mean in English?

19: What is pogonophobia?

20: What is the oldest frequently spoken language in Europe?

21: What is the standard deviation of the mean?

22: What was The Giant Bat of St. Bride?

23: What is a frequency distribution?

24: What’s the name of the pub in Dale?

25: Who hated a barnacle as no man ever did before?

26: What is the oldest structure designed for ordnance in Milford Haven?

27: What multicellular creatures might survive in outer space without spacesuits?

28: What do house dust mites eat?

29: What creatures terrified the protagonist in Edgar Allen Poe’s story The Tell Tale Heart?

30: In 1930, why did a policeman stop the traffic on Tower Bridge?

31: What was The Black Legion?

32: What colour is phycoerythrin?

33: When did the oil tanker Sea Empress first crash into the rocks near St Anne’s Head?

34: What is Melarhaphe neritoides?

35: Which Emperor of France was a special constable in London?

36: What is a null hypothesis?

37: What animal paddled into the middle of the pond on Skokholm at the sound of the supply vessel?

38: Who is the cocker spaniel?

39: Where is the source of the Afon Synfynwy?

40: What does Aberdaugleddau mean in English?

41: What is the smallest city in the UK?

42: Where in Pembrokeshire can you discover the truth about longshore drift?

43: How many musketry loops are there in The Defensible Barracks at Pembroke Dock?

44: Which champion of marine conservation informed me that: “Limpets are my f***ing business Steve…”?

45: What does a baby termite have to do before it can digest its food (wood)?

46: What marine mollusc has up to a 100 blue eyes and is jet propelled?

47: What is a murmuration?

48: What was the carbon date obtained for the earliest known Dale Fort?

49: What was Chain Home Low?

50: Who was the military engineer most probably responsible for the construction of Dale Fort?

51: Who is Jooligan Inglesius?

52: Who was the earliest named victim of gingism in Pembrokeshire?

53: What is an actinomorphic flower?

54: What is a stigma (in terms of parts of a flower)?

55: What is rifling?

56: Why would you not use ferrous metals in a powder magazine?

57: What was La Gloire?

58: What Does RnkAvg stand for in Excel?

59: What is an MCZ?

60: Who drew the earliest known plan of the present Dale Fort?

61: Who was Scalm?

62: What is the largest predator on earth?

63: Why do rabbits do so well on Skomer and Skokholm?

64: What sounded like the wail of a discontented elephant?

65: What % (by weight) water loss can Fucus serratus tolerate?

66: What year did Noddy’s Hat get broken?

67: What does Creigiau Preseli mean in English?

68: What was the name of Colonel Owen Evans’s dog?

69: What was M. A. Bland known as?

70: How much water loss (by weight) can bladder wrack tolerate?

71: What is an anaerobic organism?

72: What is Ascophyllum nodosum?

73: Who on the shore has flashing headlamps?

74: What species of red seaweed can you buy on Swansea Market?

75: Where was the largest oil fire the world had ever seen until the first Gulf War took over this dubious honour?

76: What was an M-Coil?

77: What entered the sea via a blue silk parachute?

78: What does LCG stand for?

79: How many military personnel were stationed in and around Dale during World War Two? (To the nearest thousand will do).

80: Who invented the nun shrinking machine?

81: Who was the first warden of Dale Fort Field Centre?

82: When was the first recorded field course at Dale Fort?

83: Who helped fire a volley of King Edwards potatoes at an Icelandic trawler during an action in The First Cod War?

84: How much aggregate was needed for the main runways of Dale Airfield? (This one’s for Simon).

85: How do Natural Resources Wales know if someone if breaking their code of practice for worm digging at The Gann Site of Special Scientific Interest?

86: What salt marsh plant is sometimes called “poor man’s asparagus”?

87: Sea pink, thrift, Armeria maritima. Three names for the same plant. What languages does the generic name (Armeria) derive from?

88: Which salt marsh plant tastes of coriander (apparently) and is best avoided even if very hungry?

89: Which coasts are the native habitats of Sargassum thunbergii?

90: What are the main nutrients derived from chicken poo that algae might use?

91: What is nominative determinism?

92: Who wrote A Field Atlas of the Seashore?

93: What is a fruiticose lichen?

94: How many tanks (+ or – 10) does the British Army have ready for action?

95: What is the Ritec Fault?

96: When did Archbishop James Ussher claim that the world began?

97: When was the paddle steamer Albion wrecked?

98: Where did Saint Brynach commune with angels?

And finally:

99: How do you ensure instant eternal bliss upon shrugging off the mortal coil?

If you’ve actually completed this quiz and it took you anything like the time and effort it took me to compile it, I think you might be a rare bird. I suggest you send the results to me and you’ll probably win.

The answers and results will appear in the new speak year in Blog 101.





Dale Fort Blog Number 99

7 08 2023

Blog number 98 ended with a discussion of the meaning of weeping chancels. It will have become clear to readers that I (like everyone else I think) have no idea what is the meaning of a weeping chancel, if there is one. This blog leaves the church grounds and visits Nevern Castle via a magical stream and some religious relics.

The clapper bridge

There is a gated archway leading out of the north side of the churchyard. It looks as if it’s private, but it’s not (although the lady who lives in the nearby house appreciates you not standing in her garden for long periods).

As you leave her garden you pass over an ancient clapper bridge. It has been repaired somewhat unsympathetically with a load of concrete. Having said that, at least it’s still there and usable as a result.

Many years ago I attended a guided walk around Nevern, led by Roger Worsley, who at this point introduced us to a fellow attendee. Until then she had not said anything but had been observed dangling a crystal on a string near various objects. She introduced herself; she was a Preseli witch. She then showed us all how to tell if a stone was masculine or feminine*. More pertinently, she explained how one might become a Toadman. This is a person with power over animals. She did not specify precisely what the power you got was, but this is how you do it:

Instructions as to how to become a Toad Man:

First catch your toad, kill him and stretch him out over an ant hill until all that remains is bones. Collect the bones and take them to the old Clapper Bridge. Throw them; bone by bone into the water. Most of them will just float off downstream, one of them however will turn around and swim back up towards you snarling and cursing. You must catch this snarling bone and keep it. Return to the bridge for three consecutive nights with your ill-tempered bone. At some point the devil will appear and attempt to steal your bone. If you can retain it and do so until morning the devil will go away and you will have become a Toad Man, one with awesome (but unspecified) powers over all animals.

In formal spell format:

A toad you catch with slithery skill,

Despatch him then on a large ant-hill

Stretch his corpse and cover with stones

Return at dawn and collect his bones

Make your way to Brynach’s Crossing

And bone by bone begin a-tossing

Most will float off down the stream

But one will turn and curse and scream

He’ll swim back up with a snarl and groan

Then you must catch this angry bone

Return at night for three times more

Til the devil himself appears on shore

If you can keep your bone from him

Avoid his tearing you limb from limb

Then by dawn’s light the devil will flee

And now a Toad Man you will be…

Or as Hermione Granger might put it:

homo bufo manifesto post multum tribulationis

Similar tales are told in East Anglia where the protagonist gets psychic powers over horses.

* If the crystal rotates clockwise it’s a girl stone, if it goes anti-clockwise it’s a chap.

The Pilgrim’s Way

Pass over the bridge and walk (or order a passing animal to carry you) up the hill until you come to a footpath on the left, which should have a sign telling you that it is the Pilgrim’s Way. According to Worsley, the pilgrim’s way is the conjunction of two pilgrim’s routes from Cumbria and Gloucestershire. After rest and refreshment at Nevern you would carry on to St Davids to complete your pilgrimage. Why would you go on a pilgrimage?

The Roman Catholic Church believes that after death you go to one of four places:

1. If you have no sin staining your immortal soul you go straight to heaven.

2. If you’ve got some sins but no mortal sins (mortal sins are really serious ones like murder or decking the pope), you go to purgatory. Here you take your punishment for a time dependent upon the severity of your sins. Once you’ve served your time you get admitted to heavenly bliss.

3. If you have any mortal sins (even just one) you go to hell with no chance of redemption.

4. If you’re a baby who has not been baptised (baptism gets rid of original sin, which everyone is born with, blame Adam), you go to limbo. Here, you don’t get punished but you also don’t get eternal bliss; seems rather unfair but there we are.

Indulgences

These are a way in which you can reduce your time in purgatory by doing good works or praying. By doing these things you get granted an indulgence. An indulgence reduces the time you are obliged to spend being whipped by nettles or having angry wasps inserted into bodily orifi or (insert your own divine punishment here) in purgatory.

As a boy, I remember prayer books that had tables of instructions as to what you could do to reduce your time in purgatory. Twenty Hail Marys got you a day off. Fifty Our Fathers got you a week off. Doing the washing up for a month gets you some more time off (I don’t know how much, I made that one up) and so on. You could even get a plenary indulgence (all time in purgatory wiped off the slate) if you kept quiet about what went on with Father O’Pervo behind the confessional box. This seems insane to me (and you?) nowadays, but I also recall actually being quite pleased at the time when I’d said umpteen Hail Marys or whatever. Two weeks off purgatory was not to be sniffed at.

In the Middle Ages indulgences were all the rage. You could pay to have masses said, or do a bit of flagellation, or wear hairy underpants or (insert your favoured purgative method here)…

Granting plenary indulgences became a major source of income for the church. The corruption that this engendered was legion. It was one of the main complaints on Martin Luther’s list that he nailed to the church doors in Wittenberg in 1517 to begin the Protestant Reformation.

An important aspect of all of this was the phenomenon of pilgrimage. You could get indulgences by visiting holy places and praying and spending your cash. The best results could be had by going to the most holy places (Rome or Jerusalem). If you couldn’t make it that far you could go more often to nearer places. One such place was St Davids, where two pilgrimages were said to be equal to one visit to Rome. Nevern is right on the route to St Davids. Steve Watkins, the Focal Minister of Nevern points out that the number of pilgrims is usually seriously underestimated. There are thousands of pilgrims/visitors to Nevern Church every year in the 21st century. There were probably as many or more in the past. All this means lots of potential income from people needing to be fed and watered and sold scallop shells and relics. The slight flaw in all of this in that nobody seems to know where the starting point of your pilgrimage should be. It’s a lot easier to walk to St Davids twice from Solva than it is from Ashby de la Zouch or Swadlincote.

It’s probably true to suppose that pilgrimage wasn’t always strictly religious in nature. The Canterbury Tales informs us that many pilgrims had a jolly time on their journeys. Maybe we should think of it in terms of the 21st century tourist industry with Benidorm as a modern (and much, much funnier) version of Chaucer.

A short way up the path on your right, you will come to a cross, incised in an unusual way on the rocky side of the path.

The Pilgrim’s Cross

If you want to carve a cross on some rock, the usual approach is to chisel the shape out on the selected spot so that the cross shows as a depression in the surrounding rock. Here, a radically different method has been adopted. The surrounding rock has been removed and the cross left to stand proud of the surface. It’s most peculiar and in certain lights quite difficult to see. I’ve not found any source that explains why it’s been done like this. It must have taken a lot more effort than chiselling a cross-shaped depression would have done. The rock is slaty and friable and prone to erosion, maybe making the cross this way helps it resist erosive forces.

Until recently, you might have seen coins pushed into the layers between the slaty rock as offerings or good luck tokens. I used to think that this was a nice link between Christianity and what went before. Somebody told me that Merched y Wawr (the Welsh version of The Womans Institute) used to collect them periodically and use the money for drugs and booze. I think this may have been an exaggeration, they probably gave it to other good causes. These days slotting money into the rock crevices has been banned by The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority (there’s a warning sign on a post). Apparently, the practice causes so much erosion that the cross will be lost if it carries on. I suspect people had been doing this for hundreds (at least hundreds) of years. Maybe 21st century coinage is extra dangerous.

An anonymous internet person suggests that there is a concealed chamber behind here with the seated remains of a holy man guarding a large chunk of the true cross of Jesus Christ. This sounds very like the plot of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

A little further up the path it splits into two. This is where the pilgrim’s routes from Cumbria and Gloucestershire converge for the final push to St. David’s. There are highly polished footsteps in the path incised with crosses, take care if you use them because they can be slippery.

Go back to the road and turn left up the hill for about 150m and you’ll come to the entrance to Nevern Castle on your right.

Nevern Castle

It is a big Motte and Bailey castle. A motte is a mound of earth supporting a tower. A bailey is the defended outer courtyard or ward of the castle.

It was the castle of the Fitzmartins (Norman Lords of Cemais). It was attacked by Rhys ap Gruffudd in 1191. It remained in Welsh hands after the death of Rhys and was abandoned at the beginning of the 13th Century.

Looking down from the motte tower to the bailey.

The motte and round tower.

On the eastern edge is a mound which is formed from the remains of a mostly collapsed stone tower. It is possible that Rhys remodelled the interior after he took the site and converted it to a smaller stronghold of lesser importance on the edge of his sphere of influence. Archaeologists excavated at Nevern Castle from 2010 to 2018. They dug 52 trenches and uncovered a huge area. They refilled it all and put it back as it was to preserve it all for future investigation. A single Neolithic flint arrowhead was found but there was no evidence that the site was occupied any earlier than the 12th century.

The square tower.

The rock-cut ditch defending the square tower.

Pick marks in the walls of the rock-cut ditch.

Control of Nevern Castle and the Cantref of Cemais

Pre 1109:

Pre Norman, ruled by Cuhelyn Fardd son of Gwynfardd Dyfed. There has been no evidence found of this occupation.

1109-1135:

Castle and Cantref under Norman control. Robert FitzMartin, son of Martin de Turribus built a Motte and bailey castle and established a portreeve (mayor), court and 18 burgage plots (plots of land you paid rent for). The castle was probably of earth and timber construction. The abbey of St Dogmaels was established (about 12 miles away).

1135-1171:

Henry I died in 1135 leading to The Anarchy; (Stephen and Matilda fighting for 18 years over who would be in charge of England). It is uncertain as to who was at Nevern Castle, it was probably under predominantly Welsh control. Fitzmartin and Fitzstephen (of Cardigan Castle) had been heavily defeated by Owain ap Gruffydd at the Battle of Crug Mawr in 1136. Nobody knows where Crug Mawr is exactly, but it’s thought to be north of Cardigan. There’s big a conical hill just outside Cardigan called Banc y Warren. The Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales reckons it took place there. There is a farm on the southeast slope named Crugmore which sounds very like Crug Mawr.

The battle was possibly the first large-scale use of the Welsh Longbow and it was very successful. The Normans retreated over The Teifi Bridge to Cardigan. The bridge collapsed under the weight. The Teifi was so filled with bodies and dead horses that you could walk across and not get wet feet. It’s estimated somewhere between 3000 and 6000 Normans were killed. It might be the biggest battle ever on Welsh soil. Fitzmartin probably lost Nevern Castle but there’s no known record of who was there between 1136 and the 1170s. Ceredigion (and Cemais) though were back in Welsh hands.

Fitzmartin supported Matilda in the civil war and he had inherited his dad’s huge estates in the West Country. This probably left him little time for keeping control of Nevern. Cemais was again under Welsh control. In 1154 Stephen died and Matilda’s son Henry (II) came in. In 1158, Henry II forced the Welsh to return lands they had retaken.

Robert Fitzmartin died in 1159 while his son William was still a boy. By 1165 Local magnate Rhys ap Gruffydd had taken over Cardigan and Cilgerran and probably took over Nevern too.

1171-1190:

The Normans were back in full control. In 1171 Rhys ap Gruffydd came to an agreement with Henry II. He returned recaptured land to the Normans and was made Lord Justicar by Henry II. He was now called The Lord Rhys and he married his daughter Angharad to William Fitzmartin and installed them at Nevern Castle. Some major stonework may have been added to the castle by William around this time.

The Lord Rhys held the first recorded eisteddfod at Cardigan Castle in 1176, possibly as a wedding celebration. In 1189, Henry II died and Richard I took over. William Fitzmartin went on the third crusade with Richard. Rhys then chucked the remaining Fitzmartins out and installed his eldest son Gruffydd.

1191-1195:

Nevern Castle was back under Welsh control again. A new stone tower and the rock-cut ditch may have been added at this time. However, all was not sweetness and light in the family. Gruffydd’s younger brother Maelgwn took the castle from him. Maelgwn and another brother Hywel Sais then imprisoned their father in his own tower. Hywel Sais then deceived Maelgwn, chucked him out and released his father.

1195-1204:

Hywel Sais was busy defending his castle at St Clares and so destroyed the castle to prevent it from being taken by the Normans.

Post 1204:

TheNormans were in total control, based at Newport. They built a new and better castle there, the remains of which are still occupied as a private house. Nevern was no longer a fortified site. It was probably used for agriculture (13th century plough marks were found by archaeologists and during World War Two potatoes were grown on the motte).

Nevern Castle was forgotten… Until now, go and see it, it’s very interesting.





Dale Fort Blog Contents 1 to 101

4 08 2023

Number 1

All about nematodes

https://dalefort.wordpress.com/2012/03/

Number 2

3 You Tube clips:

Starlings at Mabesgate

Error Bars in Excel 2007

Measuring Heights on Seashores

Number 3

The History of Dale Fort part 1 (all about the rocks)

Number 4

The History of Dale Fort part 2  (the construction  materials of Dale Fort).

Far more exciting than it sounds, you won’t want to miss it, go there NOW

Number 5

Sargassum muticum in Britain (with a video on how it makes babies)

Number 6

The History of Dale Fort part 3, The First Humans

https://dalefort.wordpress.com/2012/04/

Number 7

Silverfish and their ways

Number 8

The fat-bellied book chewer

https://dalefort.wordpress.com/2012/05/

Number 9

Seaweed research at Dale Fort

https://dalefort.wordpress.com/2012/07/

Number 10

Wormhole research at Dale Fort

Number 11

Limpets and their mysterious ways

Number 12

Anne, Bridget, Cadoc and David

Number 13

St David and his friend Elvis

Number 14

Dancing bananas:  Just how many are there?

Number 15

Six-legged female vampires

Number 16

Cry Havoc!  And let loose the dogs of accountancy………The History of Dale Fort part 6

Number 17

Wee timorous beasties

Number 18

A magical island where strange events take place

 Number 19

The many faces of the mean (and by the way Bill, smoking is neither big nor clever)

Number 20

Deviant Beards and other exciting topics

Number 21

Welsh in 10 Minutes (ddim yn rhugl)

Number 22

Halloween Special.  Read it with the light on……..

Number 23

Back to matters more prosaic but useful I hope.

How to get a quick frequency distribution histogram out of Excel 2007

Number 24

Spectacular weather, huge waves, the demise of a bridge,

the scaring of a photographer and much more

Number 25

BARNACLES  so much more than just the worst part of a keel-hauling

Number 26

NUNZILLA makes her debut:  She knows about seaweeds,

she’s a nun, she’s clockwork, she breaths fire.

What more could you want?

More history, that’s what and you’ll get it in Blog 26

Number 27

TARDIGRADES…….No it’s not a Norwegian swearword.

Their common name is water bears and they are astonishing creatures.

Read about them and then construct your own with our free build

your own tardigrade kit.  Ordvykejys….now that’s a Norwegian swear word.

Number 28

House Dust Mites…..I realise that it would be hard to top the

spacetastic subjects of the previous blog but house dust mites are still

extremely interesting creatures that eat human flesh and give you allergies.

Read all about them here.

Number 29

WOODWORM All you could wish to know and probably more about

about the unsung heroes of the Anti-Furniture League

Number 30

Spider Blog,  Spider Blog,   Does whatever a Spider Blog does…..

Number 31

The History of Dale Fort Part the Eighth.  200 years in 1200 words,

suitable for home freezing.

Number 32

Red and yellow and not pink and green, orange

and not purple and blue……..seaweeds and light

Number 33

Rocky shore monitoring at Dale Fort Part 1.  Channelled wrack

and rough winkles have rarely been given so much

attention and for so long.

Number 34

Rocky shore monitoring at Dale Fort Part 2.  Species diversity,

small winkles, limpets, barnacles and purple topshells.

Possibly more than you ever thought you wanted to know

about these fascinating creatures

Number 35

The History of Dale Fort Part the Ninth:  Charles Louis Napoleon,

80 cigarettes a day,  The Ladies of Royal Ballet,

Beating up Chartists, Emperor of France,

Kidnapper of vultures,

World Ping-Pong Champion 1846 (OK I made the last one up)…

what a guy…

Number 36

STATS for TWITS.                                                                                                                                    A simple guide to how hypothesis testing statistics work

and some common tests and what they do. Could any blog

be more fun than that?

Well yes, actually but I hope you’ll find it useful nonetheless.

Number 37

A visit to another magical island (see also Blog Number 18)

and some lesser known aspects of its history

Number 38

Nadolig Llawen pawb

Merry Christmas Everybody (c N. Holder 1973)

Number 39

One of the great things about geography at Dale Fort is that

you get to go to some of the  best and most interesting places .

Here we visit The Preseli Mountains to study

The Afon Synfynwy

(translation: The river who runs back up the slope to the church

where the goat is tied to the tree with the wasp’s nest

on the 3rd bough from the top

by the church with the wobbly pew at the back)

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Attempt Block Recovery

Number 40

More geography at Dale Fort.

This one is about rebranding in the interesting town of

Milford Haven (Aberdaugleddau, translation:

The lovely town by the sea, very close to Dale Fort,

with the llamas

that is easily the best place to do urban rebranding).

(You might wish to read the blog and check the veracity of this translation).

Number 41

St. Davids is the smallest city in the UK but it’s so

interesting and attractive that it gets huge numbers of tourists.

Many of them are pilgrims come to worship at the huge Norman cathedral.

Many come for the ice cream and still more for the beaches and the surfing

and the sailing.  What’s wrong with these people?

They should be coming to do Crowded Coasts at Dale Fort.

Dale Fort Tutor Kim Houkes shows us how it’s done.

Number 42

Has longshore drift ever been more stimulating?  Possibly not.

Find out for yourself here:

Number 43

The wait is over.  Now at last you can find out how

Britain responded to Napoleon III’s shenanigans.

Number 44

Bill Ballantine.  One of the greats of marine conservation RIP

Number 45

Look at the colours man……

 Number 46

They’ve got anything up to 100 blue eyes and they’re jet-propelled.  They’re in danger.  Help them.  Read this blog.https://dalefort.wordpress.com/2015/11/27/dale-fort-blog-number-46/

Number 47   Amazing Autumnal starling-related shenanigans at near Steve’s house.   https://dalefort.wordpress.com/2015/11/30/dale-fort-blog-number-47/

Number 48   Walk around the Dale Peninsula and stay dry. Part 1:  Dale Fort to Mill Bay.  

 Dale Fort Blog Number 48

Number 49 Carry on pretending to walk around the peninsula. Part 2:  Mill bay to Dale Village.

  Dale Fort Blog Number 49

Number 50   More on the history of Dale Fort. Concerning the building of the present structure.

  Dale Fort Blog Number 50

Number 51   Some lovely vehicles at Dale Fort

  Dale Fort Blog Number 51

Number 52 Gingist remarks and lots about Stackpole and Bosherston and St Govan’s Chapel.

Dale Fort Blog Number 52

Number 53   It’s nearly Christmas, so do the Dale Fort Botany Quiz.  

Dale Fort Blog Number 53

Number 54   It’s even nearer to Christmas, so look at the answers to Number 53.  

Dale Fort Blog Number 54

Number 55   Season of goodwill over, back to extreme Brexit in the 19th Century.  

Dale Fort Blog Number 55

Number 56   More on the measures taken to limit immigration at 19th Century Dale Fort.  

Dale Fort Blog Number 56

Number 57   Just how do you fire a shell through 20 inches of oak and 5 inches of iron plate?  Read Blog 57 and learn how, you never know when this could come in useful.  

Dale Fort Blog Number 57

Number 58   Once more into the breech dear friends, another small battle against Excel reveals it’s really quite easy to rank data without disturbing the data column.  

Dale Fort Blog Number 58

Number 59   It’s not all beer and skittles.  This one may depress you a little with my pontifications on marine conservation.  However, to cheer you up, it doesn’t mention plastic pollution at all.  

Dale Fort Blog Number 59

Number 60   We return to the days when problems with Europe were solved by simply building more fortresses.  Also some interesting stuff about ablutions, heating and women.  

Dale Fort Blog Number 60

Number 61   The Bones of Julian Cremona; not quite so gruesome as you might expect.  

Dale Fort Blog Number 61

Number 62   The bones of Julian Cremona part 2.  (He had rather more bones than I expected).  

Dale Fort Blog Number 62

Number 63     The third and final article about the Cremona bone depository.      

Dale Fort Blog Number 63

Number 64   Full instructions on how to blow up an iron-clad steam-ship using only a giant air-gun and half a ton of dynamite.  

Dale Fort Blog Number 64

Number 65 Nunzilla returns in full sparky, clockworkyness to tell you all about Fucus serratus.

Dale Fort Blog Number 65

Number 66   Stare at some rock for 24 years and what do you get?  This (and much more besides).  

Dale Fort Blog Number 66

Number 67   You ‘aint Nothin’ but a Dale Saint.

Dale Fort Blog Number 67

Number 68

Dale Fort as a private residence part 1 (Colonel Owen-Evans).

Dale Fort Blog Number 68

Number 69

Dale Fort as a private residence part 2 (the formidable Miss Bland).

Dale Fort Blog Number 69

Number 70

Nunzilla returns, she’s breathing sparks, she’s talking about bladder wrack and (this time) she’s not falling over.

Dale Fort Blog Number 70

Number 71

Oxygen.  Why is there so much on earth?  Why we should look after wetlands.  Advice for those who enjoy breathing.

Dale Fort Blog Number 71

Number 72

Nunzilla meets another big brown weed with swollen vesicles and a filmy negligee.

Dale Fort Blog Number 72

Number 73

Seashore Flashers (possibly not what you’re imagining).

Dale Fort Blog Number 73

Number 74

Dale Fort Blog Number 74

Nunzillareturns.  Porphyra spp.  Just a sheet of cells?  NO, much, much more than that including being a 1.5 billion US dollars a year industry.

Number 75

Dale Fort Blog Number 75

Dale Fort during World War Two.

Part one, in which we review the defences of Milford Haven at the start of the war (not great) and look at what was done to improve matters and begin to explain what went on at Dale Fort itself.

Number 76

Dale Fort Blog Number 76

Just when you thought it was safe to drive a giant magnet over a bomb…..

Read Number 76 and avoid exploding.

Number 77

Dale Fort Blog Number 77

World War Two Part Three:  Mine Watching (or not, as you’ll see if you read this).

Number 78

Dale Fort Blog Number 78

World War Two Part Four:  More about the lives of the Dale Fort Staff and a tragedy at sea.

Number 79

Dale Fort Blog Number 79

After World War Two.  What happened to Dale Airfield?  Where did all the people go?  Who was Francis Butler?

Number 80

Dale Fort Blog Number 80

Join your favourite clockwork nun among the diminutive denizens of the mighty deep.  Thrill as she surfs the mighty Bacillaria paxillifera.

Number 81

Dale Fort Blog Number 81

The earliest times of Dale Fort as a field centre.

Number 82

Dale Fort Blog Number 82

The field centre begins, 1947 – 1967.

Number 83

Dale Fort Blog Number 83

The regime of David Emerson (and I come on the scene towards the end)…

Number 84

Dale Fort Blog Number 84

Back in time to World War Two and an article about Dale Airfield

Number 85

https://wordpress.com/post/dalefort.wordpress.com/1289

An appeal on behalf of worms and much more besides…

Number 86

Amazing facts about 5 species of salt marsh plant (MUCH more exciting than it sounds).

Number 87

More exciting stuff from the salt marsh.

Number 88

How to cure haemorrhoids (possibly), how to poison yourself (almost certainly) and how to read about five further interesting species from the salt marsh (definitely).

Number 89

thunbergia is go! A reference unlikely to be understood by anyone under the age of sixty (unless you saw the 2004 feature film or the later sad animated version). What this is really all about is a big brown seaweed called Sargassum thunbergii named after an 18th-century Swedish naturalist called Carl Peter Thunberg. Maybe you could make a fortune by growing it? Read this and find out.

Number 90 https://dalefort.wordpress.com/2021/07/28/dale-fort-blog-number-90/

What happens to rock pools if you leave them for a quarter of a century? I’m not really sure to be honest, but there are some interesting results here.

 

Number 91

A continuation of Number 90 with the added bonus of a rant on why it’s important to monitor things and a brief explanation of nominative determinism.

Number 92

Takes up where blog 83 left off. We leave the Emersonian Era and enter The Cremonian Era. Mostly, it’s about the Sea Empress oil spill which occurred at the beginning of The Cremonian.

Number 93

More staring at the rocks. An action-packed thrill ride highlighting the last 25 years of Lichina confinis at site 17, Noddy’s Transect.



Number 94

A tour of The Castle Martin Artillery Range. Normally off limits to the public but Coastlands Local History Group got special permission to have a look around. We all had to sign a document promising not to pick up any objects. We also had to concede that it wouldn’t be the army’s fault if we did get blown up. Happily, everyone survived.

Number 95

A continuation of the walk around The Dale Peninsula I wrote about ages ago. Part 1 goes from West Dale Bay up to Dale Airfield and along the clifftop to Marloes Sands.

Number 96

This one continues our journey from the north end of Dale Airfield and concentrates on the geology of Marloes Sands. Can geology be rendered exciting? It all depends on the time scale. Read this and become stimulated (maybe).

Number 97

Prehistory, involving much speculation about a mysterious island. Followed by more recent history about crashing a paddle steamer into the said island. https://dalefort.wordpress.com/2023/01/31/dale-fort-blog-number-97/

Number 98

A Visit to Nevern involving pagan seduction, pigs, glam rock and sheelanaghgig shenanigans.

Number 99

A Visit to Nevern Part Two. Magic spells, the location of the true cross (not), how to obtain heavenly bliss and the surprisingly complex history of Nevern Castle.

Number 100

How did it ever get this big? Not a question I’ve been asked many times in my elongated existence. It’s simply a case of writing about anything printable I find interesting. This one is a quiz based on the previous 99 blogs. You can get all the answers from the blogs and there’s a prize for the winner. Enter the quiz, you know it makes sense…

Dale Fort Blog Number 101

The answers to the MASSIVE quiz and the announcement of the triumphant winner.

/https://dalefort.wordpress.com/2024/01/04/dale-fort-blog-number-101/

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Dale Fort Blog Number 98

3 08 2023

The Story of Saint Brynach

The Church is named after its founder the Irish Saint Brynach. Brynach was born sometime in the 6th century and died sometime in the same century. He was a contemporary of Saint David. Like many saints, he was born into a wealthy family and had the means to travel to Rome. Here he converted from whatever he was before to Christianity. On his return to Ireland, he traveled to Brittany and from there to West Wales. He landed at some unknown spot in Milford Haven.

A casual glance at the picture below might convince you that Brynach was a good-looking cove and a snappy dresser; he quickly drew the attention of a local woman. She was rich and important but unlike him, had not converted to the relatively newfangled Christianity. She took a fancy to Brynach.

Unfortunately, Brynach had taken a vow of celibacy and he rejected her advances. As a high-ranking pagan, she was able to source various love potions (number 9 I think) and perform spells and rituals designed to tempt him from his crisp, wholesome, clean living, manly ways. Still, he rejected her womanly wiles. Infuriated, she changed tack completely and employed several thugs to track him down and kill him. From our 21st century perspective, this may seem to be going a bit far but it was regarded as perfectly reasonable at the time (or so the ancient pagan woman I consulted said).

Brynach set off apace to put some distance between himself and the chasing pack. At least one of his pursuers caught up with him and stabbed him in the side with a spear (like Jesus was stabbed on the cross). Blood flowed out and hit the ground, then the wound healed miraculously and a spring sprang up where the blood fell. The spear wielder was so astonished he converted. A well was built and visited by the sick for years after and healing miracles ensued. The place became known as Ffynnon Goch (Red Well).

Brynach moved on and found himself at Pontfaen in The Gwaen Valley in North Pembrokeshire. The place was infested with demons and witches, so he despatched them with a quick prayer and carried on his way. Eventually, he came to a river bank upon which were a white sow and her piglets. This was a sign from God that he should stop here for a while. A white sow appears in several church foundation stories. It was the sacred animal of Ceridwen (an ancient Welsh enchantress) which might explain why the salmon of knowledge appears in the illustration below, but that’s another story.

He climbed up the nearby hill Carn Ingli (Hill of Angels) and communed with the angels he found there. He dressed in animal skins and (somewhat contradictorily?) ate only vegetables. Eventually, he came down from the hill and built a church in what is now the village of Nevern.

Nobody knows what any of the saints of the sixth century actually looked like. This allows us the joy of being able to visualise them for ourselves. At Nevern, a lady called Angela Birch has saved us the trouble by making an embroidery of the saint which is displayed in the church.

As you can see this is an interesting depiction incorporating several pre Christian symbols like the hare (bottom left) and the salmon (bottom right). In the background you can see Carn Ingli (Hill of Angels) where St Brynach communed with angels. There is also a tree on the right which has a knot pattern on it. I’m sure that will have some symbolic significance, maybe it’s the bleeding yew (see below). The picture is taken from a postcard that used to be on sale in the church. Its charm has been somewhat spoiled for me by a member of a course I used to run at Dale Fort (A Taste of Pembrokeshire) looking at it and saying “Surely that’s Dave Hill out of Slade?” You have to be fairly aged to remember Dave Hill but you may agree that there’s a fair resemblance. Dave is the one below here, I don’t know if Brynach played the lute or felt the noise.

There was probably a small church here in the days of Brynach but nothing remains. The oldest part of the current building is the tower which dates from about 1380. The nave and chancel are later in date, probably 15th century. The architect RJ Withers did a big restoration in 1864 which rendered the inside mostly Victorian.

The Bleeding Yew

The two stemmed yew on the right of the entrance gate is either 700 or 1100 years old depending on who you believe. It bleeds continuously from a wound on its side where a branch has been cut off. Christians see this as symbolic of the blood of Christ. Feminists see it as symbolic of menstrual blood. Vampires see it as the local takeaway. However, you interpret it it’s a popular attraction for visitors. Don’t (as I saw someone do) touch the exudate and lick your finger. Yew is highly poisonous (mainly in the berries but why risk it?).

One of the reasons yew was planted in churchyards is that it discouraged people from letting animals loose and encouraged them to maintain the churchyard walls. If your stock break in and start eating yew, they’re probably going to expire quite soon. Additionally, yew is used for magic wands and divining rods. It’s also incredibly long-lived and is therefore associated with stability and eternity and so on.

Sheelanaghgig

In the wall on the right by the door is a sticky-out lump of stone, said (by Roger Worsley) to be a bowdlerised Sheelanaghgig. Sheelaghnagigs are carved representations of females with their legs akimbo and their feminine orifi on full and possibly exaggerated display. They can be found all over northern Europe in churches, dating from the 13th century. It’s not really known what they are for but presumably they are representative of fertility in some way. This one is thought (by Worsley) to have been damaged by Puritans around the time of Cromwell. Of course, it might not be a Sheelaghnagig at all, It looks more like a damaged owl to me.

Here’s a complete Sheela from St. Mary and St. David’s Church in Kilpeck, Herefordshire.

You can see why Puritans felt quite strongly about them. You can also see how the eyes are set high up on the head. The top of the damaged image at St Brynachs has rather similar eyes (if that’s what they are). As someone so famous I’ve forgotten their name said: You may believe or not without peril to your immortal soul.

Ogham

Ogham is a script used to write old Irish that has existed for at least 1600 years. It is useful for inscribing stones because it’s all made up of straight lines arranged on either side and across a central spine. The edge of the stone can therefore be used as a central spine. It is written from the bottom upwards. Horizontally, it reads from right to left (at least that’s what it says in St Brynach’s Church). There are about 400 stones inscribed with Ogham in Ireland. There are also some in West Wales, including 2 at St Brynach’s Church in Nevern. It’s the existence of these stones that betrays the Irish presence in charge of West Wales after the Romans left in the 4th century. The stones at Nevern have inscriptions in both Ogham and Latin, which means they can be read because Latin is still in use today (by The Vatican, taxonomists and Boris Johnson).

The large stone at the entrance to the church is a memorial, it has an inscription in both Ogham and Latin and it says: Vitaliani Emerito

What this means is open to interpretation but “Vitalianus discharged with honour” is what Roger Worsley thought. Possibly it’s a memorial to a retired Roman soldier. Others have suggested that it might have marked the grave of the early British King Vortigern, whose family name was Vitaliani. The stone is not in its original position, it was moved from the north side of the church. I don’t know when or why.

The south transept windowsill inside the church is one of several “Rosetta stones” of Ogham script. It is made from an old gravestone; the Latin is an exact transcription of the Ogham. Maelgwn son of Clethyr. (Clethyr was married to Brynach).

Using Ogham

Ogham is not a language it’s an alphabet. This is how letters are represented:

The name Brynach is shown in Ogham above. There is no j, w or y in Ogham so I’ve used the old Irish form of Brynach which is Bernach. Now you can write your name or even more excitingly you can translate the ogham on the stone pictured below:

An Ogham stone for you to translate

(The Hacket Stone, Ragged Island, Eire)

Nevern Cross

It can be found in the churchyard to the right of the main door. It dates from the 10th or early 11th century. It is 3.72m high and made of local Ordovician dolerite. It is very similar to the cross at Carew. It has a Latin inscription on the front: H/AN./.EH, nobody knows what this means. The back has the inscription: DNS, which is probably short for Dominus (Lord). It comprises two parts, the wheel-shaped head and the neck are joined to the main shaft via a mortice and tenon joint. There are five decorated panels on each side.

Legend has it that St David carried the cross here as a gift to Brynach. He managed this, despite the fact that both of them were at least 500 years old and dead. The first cuckoo of Spring always perches on it on St Brynach’s Day, April 7th (the day St Brynach died)

Inside the Church

Note the slight misalignment of the nave and chancel – This is sometimes called a weeping chancel and is supposed to represent Christ’s head falling to one side as he died on the cross. Traditionally, Jesus’s head is supposed to have fallen on the left side. Ian Hinton (2004) looked at 1000 churches and found that left and right-handed weeping chancels were distributed about 50:50. There was however strong evidence that where a rebuilt chancel wept, it was more correctly aligned to true east than the nave. A lot of rebuilding was done in the Georgian period (1714 to 1830’ish) when the difference between magnetic and true north was understood. Magnetic and true north have varied dramatically over the time that many churches have existed. This might account for wayward chancels.

There was no evidence for the suggestion that the churches were aligned to sunrise and sunset on the patronal saint’s day. If the position of sunrise and sunset was used, there’s also the 1752 change to the Gregorian calendar that might account for misalignment (1.3 degrees over the 12 “missing” days). Hinton does not consider this. It’s rather puzzling that rebuilders of chancels should find precise east-west alignment more important than a straight building. Maybe there’s some other reason?

The chancel at Nevern weeps to the right and it is more misaligned than the nave. What that means is anybody’s guess (including yours).

There’s a lot more to this interesting church than I have mentioned here. It’s well worth a visit. Also, there’s an excellent account of it on the internet by The Focal Minister, Steve Watkin.

His account will also tell you what a Focal Minister is.





Dale Fort Blog Number 97

31 01 2023

Marloes Sands to Gateholm

Leave Marloes Sands up the path we went down in Blog 96. There was once a mill (flour?) powered by the stream that runs down to the beach here. You can see the remains of the leat, dug to direct water to power the mill. Turn left up the coast path. As you get to the top of the cliff, on the right there are some lumpy bits of ground. On large-scale Ordnance Survey maps these are called The Pits. I’ve attempted but failed to find out what was dug up here or why. It’s tempting to think that maybe it was something to do with the mill.

Marloes Sands with Gateholm at the top left, Skomer Island is visible behind Gateholm

Ahead and on your left is the small tidal island of Gateholm. Archaeologists think that it was connected to the mainland up until the tenth century. It’s not clear how they can know this, I think it’s a guess, maybe based on current rates of erosion. Gateholm has puzzled archaeologists for a long time. Formal investigations go back more than 100 years. There was an investigation in 1909, 1930, a big survey in 1970 and the Time Team television people did two days on the island in 2012. Some archaeologists still think that it’s not possible to say what it actually was.

Gateholm has the remains of 110 small rectangular buildings, they probably had turf walls and there are post holes for roof supports. They are all linked by a central street up the middle. There is nothing quite like it anywhere else in Wales. The name is Scandinavian (like the other Pembrokeshire Islands). It might be a village. Various objects have been found over the years:

3rd to 4th century AD Roman pottery (Samian Roman red pottery).

A 6th to 8th-century bronze pin of an Irish style (used to fasten clothing).

Mediaeval pottery from the 10th, 11th and 12th centuries

Up until the mid twentieth century most people favoured the idea that it was an early Christian monastic settlement. There is no obvious focal point (like a hall or a church) for early Christians to perform their ceremonies in. Based on this, Dr Mark Redknapp (National Museum of Wales) suggests that Gateholm might be an early mediaeval citadel or defended village.

The Time Team people dug two trenches in 2012 and the results were written up by Wessex Archaeology. They were disappointed with the sparsity of their finds but in Welsh terms the results were actually good. They found 5 shards of Bronze Age pottery (5 to 6000 years old) and 14 shards of Roman pottery (made in Dorset and Oxfordshire). They also found half an amber bead. These are very unusual in West Wales and originate from The Baltic or the North Sea Coast. There was evidence of metalworking and 3 or 4 corroded iron objects from the mediaeval period. In more recent times (the last few centuries) the island may have been used as a rabbit warren, as were the neighbouring Skomer and Skokholm Islands. The lack of ground predators makes these islands good places to farm rabbits.

There’s currently a lot of erosion occurring at Gateholm. There are the collapsed remains of an earth bank and gateway at the landward end of the island. There might have been Vikings using it as well as early Christians. Whoever used it, it is evident that there was a lot going in past years in what is now a remote, unoccupied place.

A plan of the remains at Gateholm from the Coflein website (please don’t sue me, I don’t make anything from this)

In 2017, Storm Ophelia caused huge cliff collapses at the seaward end of the island.

To get to this spot these days, most visitors drive down the M4. When they get to the end of the motorway they think, “Phew, nearly there!”. Then they drive down the A40 and get to Carmarthen and realise there’s still quite a way to go. They then reach Haverfordwest and think “Phew, nearly there at last!”. Then (assuming it’s not rush hour, when they’ll be delayed for at least an extra 20 minutes by the ludicrous traffic system), they drive for another half an hour or so to get to the National Trust Car Park at Marloes, where if they can afford the huge fee and understand the unbelievably complex ticket machines, they will finally park at the edge of the west of Wales. In such circumstances, it’s natural to think you’ve come to the back of beyond. In early times it wasn’t like that. Poor or non−existent roads made land transport difficult or impossible, especially in winter. Goods and people were moved around by boats.

The west of Britain has been continuously occupied for the last 4 to 6000 years. The earliest evidence of domesticated animals in the British Isles come from Ireland. There is Neolithic pottery in The Hebrides and ancient monuments all around the western seaways of Britain. The Pembrokeshire coast is at the centre of all of that activity. Everyone who came north from France or Spain or Cornwall to here or Ireland had to pass through this bit of Pembrokeshire.

Nearly all ancient small seaside settlements have a beach of some kind by them. This allows the landing of vessels and goods and so on. Gateholm could have been somewhere where you waited for the tides to be favourable to allow you to navigate through neighbouring Jack’s Sound (a particularly dodgy place for boats), or to wait for decent weather or both.

A further point (made by Marine Archaeologist Julian Whitewright) is that journeys were unlikely to have been made all at once. Maybe different people did their own little local bit. Goods might travel for instance from Gateholm to Martin’s Haven. Then a new boat goes from Martin’s Haven to Cerfai Bay (there’s a promontory fort here). Then to the next port and so on. Eventually, you’d make your way to where you wanted to cross to Ireland, say Whitesands Bay near St Davids. It’s about 20 hours of paddling to get across to Ireland from here. You could see the Wicklow Mountains from halfway over and still see the high ground of Wales where you’d come from, so it’s a sensible place to cross the Irish Sea. You could then proceed up the Irish coast in shelter from the South West, where most bad weather comes from. This would probably be more efficient than going up the Welsh side where it was more exposed to storms. We should think of the sea as the gateway and the land as the bit that stopped you getting to places. Each little place on the coast could be a stopping off/changing boats location. Maybe Gateholm wasn’t anything religious or village-like. Could it have been a mediaeval hotel for travellers waiting for the next boat in a chain? The small buildings might be all that’s left of some ancient hotel rooms. The remains of some very small kettles and an ancient trouser press or two would support this assertion.

Here then, is a possible explanation as to why there are so many promontory forts and why they are defended. It has long puzzled me how any sort of ordered society could have existed if everyone was constantly at war with everyone else. The presence of 60-odd promontory forts in Pembrokeshire would imply that this was the case, if war was their primary function. What if they had a different use?

If you are transferring goods from one boat to another, you need some sort of holding pen for animals or a warehouse-type building for goods. It’s likely that there will be lots of valuables being held for a time while waiting for the tide or better weather.

If stuff is left lying around undefended, people nick it. Therefore, you build a big wall or walls and a defended entrance to stop them. This is exactly what the builders of the new building at Dale Fort did in 2005 to protect their building materials and equipment. They used JCBs to pile up earth banks to make ramparts, so baddies couldn’t easily steal their equipment. It only took one afternoon, a lot quicker than doing it by hand with the aid of antler picks and shoulder blade shovels. They also destroyed part of the inside surface of Dale Point Fort, the earliest physically dated Bronze Age promontory fort in Pembrokeshire. (790 BC).

November 16th 2005. Builders constructing 21st-century ramparts at Dale Fort Point Fort

As a result, CADW (the Welsh Government’s ancient monuments people) demanded that they remove their 21st-century ramparts and restore the surface as best as could be done, under the supervision of archaeologists. This ultimately led to Pete Crane’s discovery of two large concentric circles, just inside the north end of the central entrance. These marks represented the remains of a 12m diameter circular building surrounded by a drip gully.

Pete Crane and his ring in 2006, (holding a broom and apparently giving a fascist salute to my Taste of Pembrokeshire course attendees), the dots mark the location of the drip gully

The presence of this very big building was interpreted as an indication that maybe this fort was not entirely a refuge (a leading school of thought was/is that these forts were only used as defensive positions in times of war) but that someone important actually lived here permanently. Why after all go to the trouble of building a huge building that was not used very often.

Well, it could also be because you were part of a chain of small ports that were moving goods and animals up and down the coast and you built it to use as a warehouse.

This might also explain the puzzling lack of water availability in most of the promontory forts. If they were basically warehouses and trading centres, places of work rather than residence, you wouldn’t need large supplies of water. People take a bottle of water to work today, they don’t usually take enough to have a bath.

There could of course be all sorts of small trades and industries springing up around the forts to supply workers and people passing through with pasties and beer and leather goods and ropes and knives and axes and whatnot. They may have resembled the 19th-century trading centres in the American west built as defended structures, where people could buy supplies and rest for a while before continuing their journeys.

What there might not be are lots of remains of trade goods and so on. If you dig up the site of an old supermarket you’re not likely to find many ancient cans of beans (or whatever), because they are what is being sold and people would have bought them and taken them away. Obviously, anything perishable wouldn’t survive anyway. Ceramics survive almost indefinitely and they are the things that have been found mostly.

If you keep walking east along the coast path you will see that the island forms part of a small sandy bay. This used to be called Gateholm Bay but in 1837 its name was changed.

On April 18th, 1837 Captain George Bailey was carrying mail, spirits, porter, passengers and 400 pigs from Dublin to Bristol. His ship was an early sea-going paddle steamer called The Albion and it was equipped with the most advanced steam engines. Until the advent of steam, given good weather, such a journey would take about three days. Bailey was attempting to break The Albion’s own record time for the journey which stood at 21.5 hours. So he took a shortcut through Jack’s Sound.

A model of The Albion at the Science Museum, London (1837 pre-dates photography)

Readers who have got this far will recall that I mentioned Jack’s Sound above and said it was a particularly nasty place for boats. It’s a small bit of sea, about 800m wide, between Midland Island and Wooltack Point on the mainland. It’s richly supplied with rocks and reefs. At certain states of the tide large amounts of Atlantic Ocean attempt to pass through this narrow gap. This generates very strong currents. If the wind is blowing in the opposite direction everything can get very unfortunate. Most sane yachtsmen avoid it and sail around the western side of Skomer.

Way back in the last century, When I started at Dale Fort one of the first things my boss David Emerson taught me was how to navigate safely through the place. It must have made a deep impression because I still remember it today. Coming from the north side (as Bailey was), you enter the sound with Tusker Rock (just off Wooltack Point) on your left (or port as nautical coves say). Ahead on the right, you should see the Blackstones reef south-west of the large island of Skomer, you line up the reef with the lighthouse on the western tip of Skokholm Island and keep them in line as you proceed sort of diagonally through the sound. This stops you crashing into the Crabstones reef off Midland Island and reduces the chances of your sinking and suffering a miserable death.

The first charts of the area had not been published when Bailey went through the sound and he seems not to have known about the Crabstones reef because he crashed into it. The ship got stuck on the rocks. All the passengers moved to one side, so the port paddle could reach the water and they managed to get off the rock. It immediately became evident that they were sinking. Bailey now made a much better decision and drove the ship up onto the beach at Gateholm Bay. It’s reckoned that had the ship been 100m further away from the beach it would have sunk in very deep water. The whole incident took about ten minutes.

An appropriately scary illustration by the late Dave Lewis of The Albion’s approach to the beach

Albion Sands in 2022, with the Albion’s crankshaft sticking up out of the shallows (middle right)

Remarkably, no human was killed or injured and they all got off with the help of another vessel. 250 of the pigs survived for as long as it took to get them to Marloes, where they transformed into sausages, pork pies and bacon sandwiches. Uncannily, all the surviving beers and spirits disappeared from the site.

Bailey said that the reason he had hit the reef was that he had swerved to avoid a small boat with four men in it. If so, he was a hero. The slight fly in the ointment was that nobody ever identified the small boat and only Bailey appears to have seen it. In 1838 he was in charge of another ship that sank off Cork with great loss of life.

As a result of all this, the bay was renamed Albion Sands and should you be there at low tide you can see the engine’s crankshaft sticking out of the sand.

The crankshaft of The Albion sticking out of Albion Sands, Skomer Island is in the distance. (Photograph by Chris Jessop)

Many thanks to Hannah Genders Boyd, Toby Driver, Julian Whitewright and Chris Jessop, who provided much of the information that this article is based on.

Thank you for reading this and please return for the next Blog which might or might not continue this journey; or I might just go back to ecology for a while. It’s living life this close to the edge that makes it all worthwhile.





Dale Fort Blog Number 96

8 10 2022

The previous Dale Fort Blog (Number 95) took us from West Dale Bay up the coast path to Dale Airfield. This one assumes you’ve walked to the northern side of the airfield and can now see Marloes Sands. It could be high tide so you might not see much actual sand. It could be that the weather is so foul that you can barely see anything and are thinking of calling it a day. Should you find yourself in the unfortunate position of not being able to see much, hopefully, you’ll agree that the picture below shows one of the most spectacular views you could wish for.

Marloes Sands from Dale Airfield

The first part of this article will concern itself with the rocks that this glorious place is made from. I should apologise to geologists from the start because it’s not going to be very technical and as always, readers who think corrections are needed can comment and I will try to fix any mistakes.

Geological Time.

It is notoriously difficult (or as we chronologists say, impossible) to imagine vast expanses of time. This has been a major problem for humans trying to understand how things got to be the way they are.

In 1650, Archbishop James Ussher used the dates and chronologies in the bible to enable him to announce that the earth was created at midday on October 23rd 4004 BC. If you adhere to this belief, then it’s quite reasonable to suppose that what the earth looks like now is what it’s always looked like.

Such a belief, however, makes it very hard to explain how things that seem to take millions and millions and millions of years to happen could have occurred. How could a range of mountains be worn away and end up as rocks on opposite sides of huge oceans? How could complicated creatures evolve from simpler creatures given that they all look pretty similar to us over the span of lots of human lifetimes?

Any sane geological or biological text will inform you of how it’s thought that these huge changes have come about. It really does take a very long time. Given the amount of time Earth has demonstrably existed for, Archbishop Ussher’s 6000 years is only a nano-smidgeon more than an instant. Nobody can imagine 6000 years, let alone the 4.54 billion years it’s thought that the earth has been around for.

How to imagine the impossible to imagine.

A common way is to cram the whole 4.54 billion years into one year. Everyone can imagine one year. You then work out what proportion of a year it took for major events to occur over the whole 4.54 billion.

For example, if we compress 4.54 billion years into one year: For the first 3 months or so, it was just the rocks, there was nothing alive. Then, around late March, the first living creatures arrived, they all lived in the sea for ages and ages. It wasn’t until late November that plants began to live on land. Just after Christmas Day, the dinosaurs went extinct. Humans arrived at about 8pm on New Year’s Eve. So far, as Homo sapiens, we’ve raised a glass of something and just about got through the first chorus of Auld Lang Syne (43 seconds after midnight). It remains to be seen if we’ll survive until morning.

Here’s another method of imagining immense periods of time:

Click on the link and you will hear 150 clicks at 10 clicks a second. Each click represents a year. (I picked this arrangement because I think 10 clicks a second is about the fastest speed where one can distinguish individual clicks).

How long would you have to listen to the clicks before you’d heard one for every year of the Earth’s existence?

Well, since this isn’t a quiz, I’ll tell you: 15.293 years. (No sleep or tea breaks (or any breaks) allowed).

The oldest rocks at Marloes Sands are 443 million years old. That would be 1.404 years of non-stop click listening.

The youngest rocks at Marloes Sands are 418 million years old. That would be 1.325 years of clicking.

The 25 million year span of time that the rocks of Marloes Sands were laid down in would take about 29 days of clicks.

Humans have been around for roughly a week of clicks. And we’ve had about 10 seconds of New Year’s Day. On a happy note, if we really do mess up big time and don’t survive until morning, at least we won’t have to listen to any more bloody clicks.

Back to the plot:

The bit of Wales that is Marloes Sands has not looked like it currently does for very long. The sea level we have at the moment is roughly what it was after the last of the (Devensian) ice melted about 10,000 years ago.

At the time the rocks that make the cliffs were made, this bit of the world was in the south western part of a continental plate south of the equator. This plate drifted up to where it is now over the next 440 odd-million years. That may seem incredible, well it is incredible but it amounts to 12mm a year. Most of the rocks are sedimentary, made of compressed particles that settled out in the sea or in river deltas. There are also some rocks that are igneous, solidified molten rock from volcanoes. The band of rocks we are concerned with are over 5000m thick. This seems a lot, but they formed over 25 million years and it only amounts to 0.21mm a year.

The rocks have been messed about by collisions with other continental plates (see Dale Fort Blog Number 95). As a result, at Marloes sands, many of them that began as layers of seafloor sediment are now part of the land. Not only that, they have been tilted through roughly 90 degrees, so that what was horizontal is now pretty much vertical. This is well demonstrated by the fossilized ripple marks you can see in places, 20-odd metres up the vertical cliffs. They form the dramatic cliff scenery that you can see in the picture above.

Fossilised wave dapples

If we go down the main path to the beach (Sandy Lane), turn left at the end and walk for about 300m, we can see in the cliffs a set of rocks arranged chronologically, like giant rocky books on a shelf. The oldest are in the north and they get younger as you walk south-east towards the end of the beach.

The bottom of the path. Turn left onto the beach.

The rocks that were formed over the 25 million years that we are concerned with are named after The Silures. The Silures were a tribe from south east Wales who fought fiercely but eventually lost to The Romans.

The span of 25 million years is known as The Silurian Series or sometimes The Silurian Period or sometimes The Silurian Epoch. Geology often seems to have a lot of names for the same things.

The rocks of The Silurian are divided up into stages (sometimes called ages, or sometimes (confusingly) Epochs, I warned you they like multiple names). These are named (in chronological order) after Llandovery (in Carmarthenshire in Wales), Wenlock and Ludlow (in Shropshire in England) and Pridoli (a place near Prague in The Czech Republic).

Just before our rocks at Marloes were formed, there seems to have been a mass extinction of creatures. Fewer kinds of fossils are found and it’s thought that the creatures that came in were less specialised and more generalist.

Geologists call this The Ordovician/Silurian extinction. The Ordovician is the system before The Silurian. It is named after The Ordovices who were another ancient Welsh tribe who also fought fiercely against The Romans but still lost. The extinction might have been because the sea was getting too warm for many corals and other organisms, so they died (like many are doing now). It’s because of these changes in fossils that geologists decided that a transformation to a new stage had begun, which as we know they called The Silurian.

Our first (Llandovery) Silurian rocks were formed from sediments (later compressed into rock) under the sea 443 million years ago. (About a year and a half of click listening or halfway through November in single year terms).

The rocks of The Silurian look just like the rocks from the previous System (The Ordovician) but the fossils in them change.

Graptolites

The fossils of these ancient animals mark the transition from Ordovician to Silurian. They are only known from fossils and it’s thought they drifted about as planktonic organisms looking like miniature chandeliers, feeding on other plankton and detritus. Their fossilised skeletal remains are all we have today. In the picture below you can see some streaky lines in the rock, they are graptolite fossils.

Here’s a drawing of part of a better preserved one called Diplograptus modestus:

Note that the branch has a row of sticky out bits along each side of the central axis, that why it’s called Diplo. These and similar species with two rows of sticky out bits are found at the end of The Ordovician and the beginning of The Silurian.

Time passed and the environment and hence the graptolites changed. The diplograptids (above) disappear and are replaced by monograptids. As the name suggests, they have only one row of sticky out bits, hence Mono.

The drawing above is of part of a monograptid graptolite called Monograptus cyphus.

Nobody has found these at Marloes (as far as I know) but they are preserved elsewhere and mark the change between the two Systems.

Rocks of early Silurian age can be found at Marloes. They don’t have any fossils because they are igneous rocks (solidified from molten larva) of The Skomer Volcanic Group. Skomer Island (in the photograph above it’s on the top left on the horizon) is made of a series of lava flows getting older to the north. Some of this igneous rock can be seen at Marloes Sands. At the top of a gully about 300m from the path there is a big roughly triangular shaped lump rock that is part of The Silurian Volcanic Rock from about 420 million years ago. They look to have had gas bubbles in them and they look weathered, so it’s thought they were extruded into the air (rather than underwater).

The Skomer Volcanic igneous rock at Marloes Sands
Rock with gas bubbles

Before you reach the volcanic igneous rock there is some sedimentary rock in which you can find fossils of brachiopods and corals. (This rock is younger and out of sequence because the rocks are displaced by faulting).

Some vertical Silurian sandstones and mudstones at Marloes Sands

Brachiopods

These are a group of animals that look like bivalve (two shelled) molluscs (like mussels) but belong to a different group. They’ve been around for a very long time and there are some living examples to this day.

Above is a picture of a living brachiopod (Lingula anatina). They live in a burrow in mud and feed on detritus sucked up their tube. They are eaten by people in Vietnam. The tube is especially popular because it’s crunchy (yum).

Above is a picture of a fossil shell of the same species but about 420 million years older. You can find these in the sedimentary rock at Marloes that continues south east from the igneous bit towards the far end of the beach. There are about 100m of sedimentary rocks made up of conglomerates (rocks with rounded lumps that look like natural concrete) and sandstones.

The rocks get younger as you continue south east, until you reach a famous part of Marloes Sands called the three chimneys. These are layers of hard sandstones interbedded with soft mudstones. The mudstones have eroded away faster than the sandstones, leaving the latter standing proud of the surface like pillars or chimneys. There were four chimneys until a storm broke one off in 1954. When I first saw them in 1985 there were definitely three. Now in 2022 you could make a case for there being only two and a half. Bits are falling off all the time. It is wise to be aware of this.

The Three Chimneys

If you actually visit the beach to look for fossils, keep an eye out for student geologists. They are sometimes to be found here in huge numbers. Notice they are all wearing white plastic helmets and high visibility tabards. The helmets are an essential part of imbuing in them a false sense of security. Look for a recent rockfall. Observe how far some very large rocks have bounced onto the beach. What if a small one hit a geologist on the head? Imagine a ten pin bowling ball dropping on a head from 20m. How useful would a thin plastic hat be? Not very is the answer. The truth is that there is no safe distance away from eroding cliffs, but further away is better than right underneath. The tabards enable swift identification when they are dug out of a rockfall. In truth, it’s unlikely that you will get blatted by a falling rock, but it is sensible to look up and assess the danger before you settle down to eat your sandwiches under a massive boulder that’s about succumb to gravity. If it’s summer, there will be tourists doing just that. You could warn them, but you might well come in for some abuse if you do. They might even hurl rocks at you. Get a helmeted geologist to do it on your behalf is my advice.

Keep going south east the rocks get younger and younger until you come to a place where the direction of lean of the rocks changes. This is where some even younger coral bearing rocks are found. You’ve passed through most of The Llandovery stage and are entering the transition to the Wenlock stage. The rocks are now about 428 million years old. The brachiopod fossils begin to change again here. Lingula (the brachiopod we looked at above) lives in shallow’ish water nowadays and it probably did then too. As you move south east up the layers of rock, it begins to be replaced by different species. It’s thought that this change was in response to a rise in sea level and a deepening of the water. Around here you might find corals like this one:

Favocites doing an impersonation of The Giant’s Causeway lying down

Also one of the new brachiopod species:

Costisricklandia a fossil of an extinct brachiopod.

As you get nearer to the end of the bay (Red Cliff), there are fewer fossils. What is noticeable though is that the rocks become coarser grained. Fine sediments don’t settle out in moving water. Coarse sediments are heavier and might well do. Shallow, coastal waters move about much more than deeper water, so it’s thought that these changes might reflect a change to more coastal conditions. The rocks are now about 428 million years old and we are approaching the end of the Wenlock stage. As we get closer and closer to Red Cliff at the end of the bay, the rocks become deep red in colour. This is because the iron compound they contain is in the iron (iii) state of oxidation. It doesn’t matter if you’ve forgotten (or never knew) what that means. For our purposes it’s enough to understand that it means there was a lot of oxygen about and the iron in the rocks combined with it fully (oxidised) to look red, like rust. It’s thought that this reflects a change from a shallow coastal environment to a river delta environment that may have been regularly and maybe seasonally emersed (out in the air) and thus easily oxidised. Rivers delivered a huge supply of coarse sand from the eroding Caledonian Mountains (see Blog Number Three). This eventually became the old red sandstone that forms a lot of coastal Pembrokeshire today.

Red Cliff, the extreme south east of the bay, where the old red sandstone begins

This is near to the end of The Silurian System, the younger rock that follows it is part of The Devonian System.

A panorama of most of what we’ve talked about

Thanks to everyone who has managed to read this far. I never meant to go on for quite so long about the geology of Marloes Sands and I promise the next Blog will hardly mention rocks at all. What it will do is continue our journey to Martin’s Haven and have a lot of interesting stuff about The Iron Age.